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-   -   Oops, I did it again. (http://www.motoringunderground.com/forum/showthread.php?t=24068)

MtyMous 02-19-2013 03:48 AM

Oops, I did it again.
 
Decided to tackle my second retrofit. This time it's on the daily driver.

Morimoto 35w ballasts, and 35 watt 4300k bulbs.

Acura TL with ZKW-R lenses

Took apart the entire assembly, and painted the housing black while leaving the reflectors chrome so the blinkers still shine bright, and the headlights look better that way IMO.



http://i1249.photobucket.com/albums/...theadlight.jpg

http://i1249.photobucket.com/albums/...206_225334.jpg

http://i1249.photobucket.com/albums/...206_225349.jpg

http://i1249.photobucket.com/albums/...e/Finished.jpg

In the garage next to my first retrofit
http://i1249.photobucket.com/albums/...nthegarage.jpg

This is below the cutoff on the truck. Just shows the color of the cutoff. This isn't what oncoming traffic sees for anyone that doesn't quite know how projectors work. haha.
http://i1249.photobucket.com/albums/...withlights.jpg

XxThalakosxX 02-19-2013 09:33 AM

What kind of paint did you use?

MtyMous 02-19-2013 12:20 PM

self etching primer and high temp flat black.

Drew 02-19-2013 12:37 PM

That looks great! Do you ever get nose bleeds when you're driving the Ram? :laff:

Roughly what is the cost to do something like this? Are you sourcing all of the parts from one site, or having to search around some?

MtyMous 02-19-2013 02:40 PM

Price varies, but I'm using really high quality projectors.

Paint - $20
Projectors - $80 a piece on average on ebay
Clear Lenses - $40
Bulbs - $60
Ballasts and harness - $180
Shrouds - $45
Headlights - $80 for a secondary set, or free if you use your existing set (Your price will vary for a different car)
Butyl Rubber - $40 (To re-seal the headlight after disassembly)

This is all retail. But if you shop around, get comfy with ebay, and make a lot of it yourself, you can do it like I did for around $300. But on average, if you want all high quality parts, you're talking about a $300-$500 price tag.

Not for the faint of heart.


And as for the nose bleeds, It's getting lowered very soon. Nothing radical. Just a 2" front and 4.5"rear drop. It will look leveled. Then I'm putting in helper bags on the rear for when I tow my trailers and things. Should look good, but Iwill never slam it.. It's a truck.

Konstantinos 02-19-2013 03:00 PM

Love it. Good job.

MtyMous 02-19-2013 03:09 PM

On the Ram, and most Mopar applications, you also have a smart "Buld Out" system This measures resistance, and requires that you add resistors since the HID bulbs have a lower draw, and will also flicker or turn off because the system things the bulb has failed.

Here's how I got around this. 2 resistors per each side (high beam and low beam) and I fabricated a metal box to hold the resistors and almost act as a secondary heatsink. They are mounted to one of the fog light bolts behind the front bumper where they will get a lot of good air flow to geet rid of the heat they produce, and aren't near anything that is going to melt.

http://i1249.photobucket.com/albums/...7_163602-1.jpg

http://i1249.photobucket.com/albums/...217_164241.jpg

MtyMous 02-20-2013 10:51 PM

How I sealed the back side.

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g1...psab3b5034.jpg

Sketch 02-22-2013 12:47 AM

Really great work. :tu:

MtyMous 02-22-2013 02:40 AM

Thanks guys. I actually enjoy doing them. It's not that easy to do and get all of the different things correct, but totally worth it.

I really wish I could accurately show how well it lights up the entire road, but doesn't get into oncoming traffic's eyes. I used to get flashed with my regular low beams on my truck, but now I don't EVER get flashed. Because there is almost no light bleed above the cutoff line, and much easier to aim.


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