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glnr13 09-29-2006 03:34 AM

i need brakes
 
...a little help from my friends?

my first track day is coming saturday.
brake sensor kicked on last night.
took a closer look and it looks like my rotors need machining too.

so lets see, i definitely need to get this done tomorrow...

options:
performance pads/machined rotors-no break in period
performance pads/powerslots-break in for the rotors?
whatever pads/same rotors-blow out the pads and slap on better ones next week?

i don't know... opinions/suggestions?
thanks in advance boys & girls...
:)
-glen

glnr13 09-29-2006 06:31 AM

help? anyone? come on... somebody. only 7 views? 2 of them from me?! where's the love?!!?

Dave 09-29-2006 06:40 AM

With this short notice, I'd say get pads (front or rear, whichever are most worn and setting off the sensor) and be done with it.

Then deal with what to do about the rotors (stock, slotted, etc) when you have more time to work through what you really want.

chipgrafx 09-29-2006 06:42 AM

I have no real worthwhile advice for you here but I'd say do the performance pads/machined rotors-no break in period since you are short on time.

Personally, I'd like to do a Wilwood brake kit but that may have to wait a while. Good luck, whatever you choose. :tu:

glnr13 09-29-2006 06:46 AM

thanks, gents! much appreciated

btw-chip, the 11.75 wilwoods w/ those new 15's would be ill! all rotor, no gap:D

Dave 09-29-2006 06:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by glnr13
btw-chip, the 11.75 wilwoods w/ those new 15's would be ill! all rotor, no gap:D

I've been thinking about that too. Maybe in the spring. :(

Batrugger 09-29-2006 02:06 PM

If your going to put pads on, then might as well put the rotors on too since most of the work will already be done.

brownMINI 09-29-2006 02:07 PM

If you can get the rotors turned cheaply and quickly, go for it. Get new pads. Use the rotors you've got (unless they're too thin to be turned / kept). Bed in the new pads on the way to the track.

I annihilated a set of Hawk HPS front pads at Watkins Glen a couple of days ago. I knew they were close to done, the pad material was a little bit thicker than the backing plate thickness when I started, so I had the next set of pads ready to go. At the end of day 1 (of 2), the front pads were completely gone.

Swapped in the new pads for day 2, bedded them in (half-assed) on the 20 mile drive from the track to the hotel at the end of day 1, and back to the track for day 2. Got the meatball flag thrown at me on the first session of day 2 because smoke was coming off my front brakes. :laff: I knew what was going on, pulled into the got pits and told them I had changed pads the night before, and kept on going.

But, to answer the question, new pads, old rotors, machined if possible. If the rotors are toast, just get stock rotors.

chipgrafx 09-29-2006 03:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by glnr13
thanks, gents! much appreciated

btw-chip, the 11.75 wilwoods w/ those new 15's would be ill! all rotor, no gap:D

Yes! My rotors already look bigger because of the smaller wheels but with a BBk... :tu:.

sampsond 09-29-2006 04:41 PM

It will not end well
 
I know there is a Buttonwillow event this weekend, so I am guessing that is where you are going.

There are a few things you need to know about brakes.

The purpose the brake system is to turn velocity into kinetic energy. It does this through consumables (the pads and rotors) and the consumables will deteriorate at an exponential rate as they are consumed, especially on the racetrack or in another high temperature environment. So almost backing plate pads and almost minimum thickness rotors will go away much faster than a fresh set as they have less mass to dissipate heat.

That being said, the fresh stock system on even the runflat tires is inadequate for track use. That being said, changing key components of the system typically can solve most people’s issues.

I can go into great detail on this matter, but the short answer is you need new TRACK pads and it would be best to use new rotors. And it would be even better to use a high temp fluid.

The last thing I want is for you to not be able to run the full day and waste the $150-200 you spent on the track day.

Personally I use Ferrodo DS2500 on the front and run Falken Azenis and can start to fade the pads at the end of a session at Streets.

Disclaimer: I work for a brake company.

werD 09-29-2006 05:01 PM

Yeah, what he said...
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by sampsond
I know there is a Buttonwillow event this weekend, so I am guessing that is where you are going.

There are a few things you need to know about brakes.

The purpose the brake system is to turn velocity into kinetic energy. It does this through consumables (the pads and rotors) and the consumables will deteriorate at an exponential rate as they are consumed, especially on the racetrack or in another high temperature environment. So almost backing plate pads and almost minimum thickness rotors will go away much faster than a fresh set as they have less mass to dissipate heat.

That being said, the fresh stock system on even the runflat tires is inadequate for track use. That being said, changing key components of the system typically can solve most people’s issues.

I can go into great detail on this matter, but the short answer is you need new TRACK pads and it would be best to use new rotors. And it would be even better to use a high temp fluid.

The last thing I want is for you to not be able to run the full day and waste the $150-200 you spent on the track day.

Personally I use Ferrodo DS2500 on the front and run Falken Azenis and can start to fade the pads at the end of a session at Streets.

Disclaimer: I work for a brake company.


I'd grab a set of slotted for the front and some decent track pads. And then when you get home drop the track pads for something more streetable and re-bed 'em.

If you simply drop a new round of pads on the used rotors (and I assume they are quite used if you drive aggressively on the street or have relatively high mileage) you'll sacrifice performance and not have as much fun...

Ditto for the fluid, often overlooked and usually overcooked before it ever reaches the track. Replace it to help make the most of your track time.

My .000005 cents worth.

glnr13 09-29-2006 05:27 PM

thanks for the info!:tu:
i think im gonna go w/ performance pads and powerslots.
i'll drive around the canyons lightly this afternoon to begin the bedding plus buttonwillow is a good 1.5 away from me... do my first couple of runs light on the track (i would be doing that either way since it's my first time out) and uh... that's about it.
thanks again for the help.
-glen

Slow Paul 09-29-2006 05:40 PM

But did you get pads yet??? If so what pads, and How had was it to find power slots the DAY BEFORE the track event??

sampsond 09-29-2006 06:32 PM

Bedding In Pads
 
If this is your first track event, I HIGHLY recommend bedding in the pads before you get to the track. It is better to be listening and working with the instructor then worrying about your brakes.

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedinstock.shtml

And there will be two StopTech sales guys at the event on Saturday. One will be in a black Sti and the other in a yellow C5 Z06. I won't be able to attend as I had other plans for the weekend.

glnr13 09-30-2006 12:06 AM

EBC's (green) and powerslots. steve had both in stock.
followed the bedding instructions and provided by sampsond (thanks btw!:tu:), did an afternoon run up angeles and back down...

honestly, not an amazing difference between stock and the new setup. but then again i wasn't pushing it. now when someone pulled out on me a few blocks up the street from me and i slammed on these new guys? that's when the difference came in... much better stopping power. not sure how these green's will do overall, i know there are several peeps that swear against them... i'll find out soon enough.

oh, this is just fyi for anyone that's curious:
stock fluid/stock lines
upgrades on these to come later;)

all your inputs are greatly appreciated! thanks again guys
-glen


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