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-   -   Another bad Radiator Fan resistor+other issues (http://www.motoringunderground.com/forum/showthread.php?t=23506)

rallykid89 09-05-2012 11:24 PM

Another bad Radiator Fan resistor+other issues
 
Ok, so Ive had this 05 R53 for 5 months now and my clutch slave cylinder said byebye. So I went to a local shop to get it fix (E2 services aka 1fastMini for those of you that live in the orlando area). While I was there, I had them do a run down on what I should expect to replace in the near future. They ended up giving me a list:

1. slight leak from the oil filter housing gasket (probably wont fix this; I dont mind small leaks and I always keep an eye on all my fluids) $173

2. small PS line leak. (again, probably wont fix this unless it gets really bad. I've topped it off once since I have had the car) $700!!!

3. And finally, a bad low speed fan function resistor... $600 total including labor. I understand that the high speed function kicks in at either 230F or when the AC is on. I read of people on the forum that had this issue and their cars overheated. So today I ran the car hard all the way back from work with the AC off. The temp needle never went past the midpoint line...

should I still fix this?? I live in florida so I run my AC 98% of the time the other 2% being January and when I autox. Should I fix any of the other issues???

The guys at the shop told me I have to replace the whol rad assembly with the BMW one or else it'll cause more issues down the road if I use an aftermarket resistor or fan kit...

I really don't want to spend money on this unless necessary beacuse I'd rather be moding/tuning the car with that money.:dribble:

(my previous car was a miata which I sold at 317K miles, had a hand full of leaks and still drove the crap out of it at the track/autox).

glnr13 09-05-2012 11:40 PM

it won't overheat too easily/quickly since the fan functions at high and low speed. so your resistor is busted and low speed doesn't work but when it gets really hot the high speed kicks on, no overheating. works for now but certainly not the way the cooling system was designed to run.

they sell the rad assemblies on ebay for <$200 but the labor is where you'll still get hit since it sounds like you don't want to do the wrenching yourself. it's a full front tear down to get to it.

i'm surprised they didn't say anything about the thermostat housing gasket, those tend to blow out and leak

minsanity 09-06-2012 03:06 PM

DT offers a resistor fix. Though their site words it as relay/diode kit.No fan replacement needed. Check em out via this link:
http://www.detroittuned.com/shop/?productID=530

Or you can check this epic of a thread:
http://www.northamericanmotoring.com...lution-30.html

rallykid89 09-06-2012 10:06 PM

The guys at the shop told me not to use any aftermarket replacement parts like that one because it could cause bigger electrical problems or even cause fire... Not sure if this is true. But if it isn't then thats awesome!

minsanity 09-06-2012 11:51 PM

Among the many who've done this fix, I've never heard of any having problems. It's just a simple resistor. You can even bypass the resistor, if you want. That way, you get hi-speed instead of low all the time. Might shorten fan motor or brush life, I presume.

glnr13 09-07-2012 12:51 AM

i'm with minsanity on this. when i had my r53 i was in the process of just switching out the resistor and my mechanic had done it on several other cars before that kit was around. it's worked on many other cars and i've never heard of any problems or fires.

cheerio244 09-07-2012 02:21 AM

Honestly, I replaced my radiator fan with one from rockauto, I think it was like 70 bucks...I replaced it myself, and I live in Orlando, so if you really wanna do it I'll help you out, it takes like an hour or two.

I've had the new radiator fan for...4-5 months now? No problems, and it works perfectly. The fan that I bought also has a lifetime warranty if anything, so it works out.

Oh, and I have had a PS line leak (Diagnosed by E2) for...over a year now...And my PS fluid never moves, I check it every time I change the oil, but it's never gone down

minsanity 09-07-2012 04:56 AM

The OEM fan is deemed superior to replacements, thus most just squeeze whatever life left on em w/ the bypass or resistor kit. PS line leaks are often fixed by new clamps. Cap weeping is tackled by cap o-ring replacement. These are low cost approaches. :tu:

beken 01-10-2018 08:56 PM

Dragging out an old thread. It's time for me to fix my fan motor.
I was looking for a comparison of the aftermarket fan motors but only see some rather mixed reviews of them individually.

In Canada the MINI fan costs $600 :eek:
The TYC and Dorman fans cost about $240 or $150 from Amazon.

I was about to get the Dorman fan as it seems to have the better quality resistor than the TYC one when, like this thread suggested, to just replace the resistor.

My existing fan motor still works except for the low speed, but unless you do it yourself, most mechanics won't replace just the resistor.

I think I am too old now to try and fix it myself. Also, my MINI is going on 13 years old and has lots of miles on it so it probably is a matter of time before the motor brushes wear out on the original fan anyways.

Should I spend the big bucks and buy an original MINI fan motor, ask for the old one back and then do the resistor upgrade mod myself and keep the old unit around as a spare?

Or just buy the Dorman unit and keep the old one as a spare with the resistor upgrade.
My hesitation is in the reviews for any of the aftermarket fan motors. It appears their working life is about 2 years then the motor goes (not the resistor).

Suggestions?


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