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  #16  
Old 07-10-2010, 06:21 AM
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so am I missing something why are you guys using a 0W??
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  #17  
Old 07-10-2010, 11:39 PM
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its one of the easiest 'approved' Euro-spec oils to find, and one of the better ones supposedly. If they made it in a 5/30 id be all over it, but no.

the ones i know of currently are:

Castrol syntec European formula SAE0w30

Mobile 1 SAE0w40

Pennzoil platinum European formula ultra SAE5w30

Valvoline synpower SAE5w30

or obviously the dealer
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  #18  
Old 07-11-2010, 07:15 PM
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Using Mobil 1 0W-40 with 80k+ miles. My commute to work is under 5 minutes, so in order to keep the engine from absolutely hating me, I have to use a 0W.
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  #19  
Old 07-12-2010, 04:16 AM
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so Royal Purple isn't Euro-Spec? also I still don't under stand why your using a 0W
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  #20  
Old 07-14-2010, 11:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F.G. View Post
so am I missing something why are you guys using a 0W??
In colder starts, it more fluid than a 5w.
So, when I crank the Clubby over in the winter with a -20F wind chill, the oil isn't clumping.

Having a more fluid oil also allow quicker draw by the pump and faster drain back into the pan.

- Erik
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  #21  
Old 07-15-2010, 03:28 AM
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Pennzoil plat, or whatever 5 qt jug I can get around $20, 5w-30 and I change every 5k miles max.

Honestly as often as most of us are changing our oil its fine to buy whatever synthetic is on sale unless you are racing the car. Any of the weights listed are fine in any major brand synthetic with a factory filter.

You'd have to put 250k miles on the car to notice a difference and buy the time you calc'd up all the extra oil cost buying the latest "0W-?? Eurotrash blend" over the 250k miles you could pay for another engine.

Back in the 90's when I was running with the Porsche crowd I had a 944 turbo that had had a mix of different dino oils since new, every 3k miles, hardly any synthetic run through it. The car had about 195k miles on it with no issues, head had never been off the block, when we were doing a top end rebuild on the valvetrain and when we removed the heads the wear on the cylinders was so minimal you could still see the original honing machine marks from when it was built in '86.

My point is that brand and exact grade of oil is not as important as reglar oil changes, and if you are doing it every 5-6k miles with synthetic just buy the cheapest and you'll be fine. Hell, most of us only keep the cars a year or two before flipping into something else so what the hells the point anyway.
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  #22  
Old 07-16-2010, 03:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluefox280 View Post
In colder starts, it more fluid than a 5w.
So, when I crank the Clubby over in the winter with a -20F wind chill, the oil isn't clumping.

Having a more fluid oil also allow quicker draw by the pump and faster drain back into the pan.

- Erik
So, Depending on where we are (climates), that is what we shud use? i'm using Royal Purple, 5W. and itz working great for me, Doesnt get colder then 60degree
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  #23  
Old 07-16-2010, 03:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madsedan View Post
Pennzoil plat, or whatever 5 qt jug I can get around $20, 5w-30 and I change every 5k miles max.

Honestly as often as most of us are changing our oil its fine to buy whatever synthetic is on sale unless you are racing the car. Any of the weights listed are fine in any major brand synthetic with a factory filter.

You'd have to put 250k miles on the car to notice a difference and buy the time you calc'd up all the extra oil cost buying the latest "0W-?? Eurotrash blend" over the 250k miles you could pay for another engine.

Back in the 90's when I was running with the Porsche crowd I had a 944 turbo that had had a mix of different dino oils since new, every 3k miles, hardly any synthetic run through it. The car had about 195k miles on it with no issues, head had never been off the block, when we were doing a top end rebuild on the valvetrain and when we removed the heads the wear on the cylinders was so minimal you could still see the original honing machine marks from when it was built in '86.

My point is that brand and exact grade of oil is not as important as reglar oil changes, and if you are doing it every 5-6k miles with synthetic just buy the cheapest and you'll be fine. Hell, most of us only keep the cars a year or two before flipping into something else so what the hells the point anyway.

Id agree if I didnt have some warranty left. Ill pay a couple extra dollars juuuuuust in case something terrible happens.

After that ill still stick to the 'approved oils' and the one ive been using as id rather just always keep it the same.
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  #24  
Old 07-20-2010, 06:46 AM
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Built motor and running 15w-50
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