motoring|underground  
Register FAQ Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Blog

Braking Clamping the binders.

Go Back   motoring|underground > On the Lifts > Braking
Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #1  
Old 03-16-2006, 08:25 PM
KiLO's Avatar
KiLO KiLO is offline
μ
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 11,662
Send a message via ICQ to KiLO Send a message via AIM to KiLO Send a message via MSN to KiLO Send a message via Yahoo to KiLO
Default Pad and Rotor Bed-In

So, I've been doing some reading on brake pad and brake rotor bed-in theories, and I didn't know how deep this area went until just recently.

I have some slightly used (about 1K miles) DBA rotors coming to me, and will be buying new pads to go with them.

Now, for the question... Most of the bed-in theory that I'm reading is applicable to new pads and new rotors, but what if I have used rotors, and new pads? The application would be probably 80% normal street driving, and 20% more aggressive street (canyons, etc.)

What do you guys think?
__________________
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 03-16-2006, 08:48 PM
Lucky13's Avatar
Lucky13 Lucky13 is offline
Banned
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: 805 ventura cali
Posts: 3,564
Send a message via AIM to Lucky13
Default

i put new pads on my old rotors in the rear and it sucked so bad
they are just now feelin normal again
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 03-16-2006, 08:53 PM
KiLO's Avatar
KiLO KiLO is offline
μ
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 11,662
Send a message via ICQ to KiLO Send a message via AIM to KiLO Send a message via MSN to KiLO Send a message via Yahoo to KiLO
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucky13
i put new pads on my old rotors in the rear and it sucked so bad
they are just now feelin normal again
Exactly. That's why I'm wondering what methods need to be used to bed-in the new pads properly with used rotors.
__________________
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 03-16-2006, 09:10 PM
iDiaz's Avatar
iDiaz iDiaz is offline
μ
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: San Marcos, CA
Posts: 15,873
Send a message via AIM to iDiaz
Default

Well, since there might be a lip around the edge of the rotor from wear, what I do when I install new pads on old rotors is drive around on them using lighter than normal brake applications. I do somewhat longer braking with slightly less pressure than I normally would, in order to allow the pad to wear down a bit and conform to the grooves worn into the rotors. Once the pedal starts to feel normal (a week or so is usually about right), I progressively work my way up into shorter/stronger brake applications.

Once I feel the pad is likely conforming completely to the rotor (nice firm pedal, good feel), I go through the procedure to break the compound itself in. To do this, I'll bring the car up to about 80 mph, then smoothly but quickly go to treshhold braking, with just enough pressure to feel only the tiniest pulse of ABS through the brake pedal, until the car reaches about 20 mph. After that, I drive around for a few minutes to let them cool a bit, then I repeat it again. I go through that cycle about 5-6 times, then wait a few days, and do it again 2-3 times. Make sure you drive around for awhile afterwards to let your brakes cool to a normal operating temperature, as the threshold braking applications will bring the temperature up pretty high.

By that point, your pads should be pretty well bedded in, depending on the compound. The bed-in procedure I've described works well with Ferodos, but if you're going to a less aggressive pad, you may wanna reduce the number of threshhold applications initially, so as to reduce the risk of overheating the pad and glazing your rotors.

In my experience, brake pads don't really reach their full potential until you work them hard enough to make them smoke (fast canyon or track driving) a couple of times, but expect a lot of brake squeal for awhile after you subject them to that sort of duty.
__________________
Click the image to open in full size.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 03-16-2006, 09:27 PM
Lucky13's Avatar
Lucky13 Lucky13 is offline
Banned
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: 805 ventura cali
Posts: 3,564
Send a message via AIM to Lucky13
Default

muuuah i am a professional brake pad smoker
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 03-16-2006, 09:28 PM
iDiaz's Avatar
iDiaz iDiaz is offline
μ
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: San Marcos, CA
Posts: 15,873
Send a message via AIM to iDiaz
Default

No, THIS is:

Click the image to open in full size.

__________________
Click the image to open in full size.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 03-16-2006, 09:39 PM
Lucky13's Avatar
Lucky13 Lucky13 is offline
Banned
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: 805 ventura cali
Posts: 3,564
Send a message via AIM to Lucky13
Default

word
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 03-17-2006, 06:35 AM
ben's Avatar
ben ben is offline
H Rated - 130 mph
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Long Beach Ca
Posts: 99
Send a message via AIM to ben
Default

you can take a 120 grit sheet of sandpaper and rough it up to remove some of the glazed residue from the previous brakes. Use circular motions but don't over do it... then follow ivan's techniques.
__________________
Click the image to open in full size.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 03-17-2006, 05:23 PM
KiLO's Avatar
KiLO KiLO is offline
μ
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 11,662
Send a message via ICQ to KiLO Send a message via AIM to KiLO Send a message via MSN to KiLO Send a message via Yahoo to KiLO
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ben
you can take a 120 grit sheet of sandpaper and rough it up to remove some of the glazed residue from the previous brakes. Use circular motions but don't over do it... then follow ivan's techniques.
Yeah, that kinda scares me though since I don't know what I'm doing.
__________________
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 03-17-2006, 05:31 PM
iDiaz's Avatar
iDiaz iDiaz is offline
μ
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: San Marcos, CA
Posts: 15,873
Send a message via AIM to iDiaz
Default

Yeah, and the sandpaper will create a slightly scuffed surface that will aid in embedding the new brake friction material into the rotor. Just make sure you wear a mask so you don't inhale anything.
__________________
Click the image to open in full size.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 05-10-2006, 12:38 AM
sampsond sampsond is offline
H Rated - 130 mph
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: LAX, CA
Posts: 81
Default Step by step bed in process

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...contents.shtml
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 05-11-2006, 08:06 AM
hollis3's Avatar
hollis3 hollis3 is offline
μ
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: encinitas
Posts: 11,126
Send a message via AIM to hollis3
Default

welcome sampsond.

a lot of good info there.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 06-15-2006, 03:36 PM
Msfitoy's Avatar
Msfitoy Msfitoy is offline
Y Rated - 186 mph
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Greensboro, NC
Posts: 358
Default

Here's a bit of good information that I use from Stoptech:

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedintheory.shtml

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...formance.shtml

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedinstock.shtml
__________________
"At my Dojo, the use of firearms is highly encouraged..."
Sensei Anthony Bourdain
Click the image to open in full size.
Msfitoy's Profile
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


CURRENT MOON

All times are GMT. The time now is 06:32 PM.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.1
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
2005 motoring|underground, all rights reserved.