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  #1  
Old 03-19-2011, 07:26 PM
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Default I'm assuming this should be replaced...

Ouch!

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Right front strut. Not sure if that's some sort of dust cover, or what. It seems to be plastic/rubber.
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Old 03-19-2011, 08:29 PM
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LOL Yeah....that needs to be replaced. That rubber is kinda what keep the suspension attached to the car .

Pretty common problem on all BMWs, so no reason to worry. Just replace it, and go on about your life.
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Old 03-19-2011, 10:13 PM
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Yay!

btw. I should have read the installation instructions for the Helix shift linkage thingie. It basically goes like this:

Step 1) Disassemble entire car.

Step 2) Place shift linkage thingie on the floor

Step 3) Re-assemble entire Mini around the linkage thingie.

No way can I do this with 2 jack stands. It might show up in the Parts Bin soon.
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Old 03-19-2011, 10:42 PM
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Haha, it shouldn't be that bad man... I took out the entire front subframe, replaced all the bushings, cleaned everything, put it back in, replaced the engine bushings and reassembled everything in a parking lot with two jackstands in one day.
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Old 03-19-2011, 11:05 PM
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check for shrooming
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Old 03-19-2011, 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by glnr13 View Post
check for shrooming
Oh I have quite a bit of shrooming. I beat most of it out with a block of wood and a mallet, then installed a set of Craven STDs.

btw, does anyone know if it's possible to adjust the rear Koni yellows once they're mounted. I can't find any way to access the tip of the shaft from inside the car. Do you have to pull the back seats or something?
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Old 03-19-2011, 11:18 PM
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You can't access the rear strut tops without either removing them or cutting into the bodywork and installing adjustment snake hoses. Major flaw IMO. My rear struts are adjusted at the bottom of the strut and it makes adjusting them suuuuuper easy since you just have to peek under the car and twist a knob.
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Old 03-20-2011, 12:51 AM
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You can't access the rear strut tops without either removing them or cutting into the bodywork and installing adjustment snake hoses. Major flaw IMO. My rear struts are adjusted at the bottom of the strut and it makes adjusting them suuuuuper easy since you just have to peek under the car and twist a knob.
How did you manage that?

I'll probably set mine to full soft (or something close) due to the roads around here.
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Old 03-20-2011, 02:38 AM
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running custom struts in the rear for my airride and went with the ones that are adjustable at the bottoms.

The setting you put it at will more depend on the spring rate than the road conditions.

Full soft could be far less comfortable on rough roads if it's not matched well to your spring rates. Full soft might leave you bouncing all over if your running stiffer springs. It seems somewhat counterintuitive, but a stiffer setting to match stiffer lowering springs will end up with a more comfortable ride than a damper that's set too soft.
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Old 03-20-2011, 11:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oreo View Post
Yay!

btw. I should have read the installation instructions for the Helix shift linkage thingie. It basically goes like this:

Step 1) Disassemble entire car.

Step 2) Place shift linkage thingie on the floor

Step 3) Re-assemble entire Mini around the linkage thingie.

No way can I do this with 2 jack stands. It might show up in the Parts Bin soon.
are you sure about this?

granted i have a gen 2, but all i had do was to lift the front, drop the exhaust to the floor, and then i was ready to add the helix piece.
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Old 03-20-2011, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Rally View Post
The setting you put it at will more depend on the spring rate than the road conditions.
Oye.... Well I have H-Sport springs (I think). I have no idea how stiff they are relative to stock. The ride remained pretty much the same, which probably means nothing because I lost a ton of unsprung weight when I ditched the stock rims and run-flats.

Maybe I'll start them off with a turn from full soft, then play with the front adjustment to see what works best, then duplicate the setting on the rear. Trial and error on the rear would be a pain.


Quote:
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are you sure about this?

granted i have a gen 2, but all i had do was to lift the front, drop the exhaust to the floor, and then i was ready to add the helix piece.
When I had the front up on jack stands, all I could see was one exhaust pipe and around 20000 square yards of heat shielding. It just didn't seem like something that was doable in a day with the bottom of the car around 2" above my chest.
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Old 03-20-2011, 06:12 PM
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Quote:
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When I had the front up on jack stands, all I could see was one exhaust pipe and around 20000 square yards of heat shielding. It just didn't seem like something that was doable in a day with the bottom of the car around 2" above my chest.


haha, i didn't say it was a walk in the park, just doable...
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Old 03-20-2011, 06:42 PM
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Well I have good news and bad news.

Good:
Got everything done, and took Rally's advice about not leaving the rears at full soft. I gave them a full turn in, then went for a test drive. HOLY CRAP does it ever drive 1000x better than the stock shocks and struts!! A little firmer WAS the ticket, and I even decided to give the front another half turn...

Bad:
..and you can imagine my surprise to find out that the front and read adjustment knobs are DIFFERENT! Who was in charge of that?? Well, I only had a rear with me, so that will warrant another test drive (), BUT when I got back home I noticed, to my horror, that I had a leftover part. I had to drill the very large top washer out to fit the Konis, and of course there they were, still clamped into the vice. Looks like I'll have to both rears out. I'll also have to redo the right front once I get the new mount to replaced the broken one.

But the car drives SO much better. It was definitely worth doing!
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