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Braking Clamping the binders.

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  #16  
Old 07-13-2006, 04:51 PM
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Haha, yeah, it's cool Thumper, this stuff is sounding bad all over the place.

Just as a side note too... I borrowed the Harbor Freight caliper tool kit thing from a friend, and it worked well. ( http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=40732 )
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  #17  
Old 12-19-2009, 10:20 AM
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Reviving a dead thread here. Got some questions though. I want to completely remove the front and rear calipers. Im going to presume this is easier said than done, but can it be done without too much hassle?

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Originally Posted by iDiaz View Post
Yeah, I just use a large C-clamp to retract the rear pistons. Here's a quick step-by-step:

- Loosen the wheel bolts on the corner you want to work on.
- Jack the car up, and set it on jack-stands or some other secure means of holding the car up.
- Remove the wheel bolts and the wheel.
- Remove the retaining clip with a pair of pliers. It looks like a bent coat-hanger, and sits on the outside of the caliper.
- Reach around the back of the caliper and you'll feel (and see) two cylindrical rubber stubs sticking out, with plastic caps on the end. Remove the plastic caps with your fingernail.
- Using a 7mm allen wrench (pain in the ass) or 7mm allen socket (easier), remove the pins that are inside of the rubber stubs you just uncapped. They won't back all the way out, so once you've backed them out to the point that turning them is no longer productive, look between the two parts of the caliper and you'll see threads. Use your fingernail or a screwdriver to carefully back the pin out further.
- Wiggle the caliper off of the rotor, being careful to support the caliper at all times, not placing any stress on the brake line.
- Remove the brake pads. The fronts pull right out, and the rears slide off laterally.
- Using a large C-clamp, place the stationary C-part on the back of the caliper, and the end of the threaded shaft on the piston that protrudes from the inside of the caliper. The front pistons will push in directly, and can actually be compressed by hand. The rear pistons need to turn clockwise as they're pushed in, so this is where the C-clamp comes in handy. Turn the C-clamp until the swively end of the clamp shaft binds up, which will force the rear caliper piston to turn as you turn the C-clamp shaft. This may take some force, but be careful not to apply too much force! As you push the piston in, be very careful not to damage the rubber boot that surrounds it.
- Once the piston is compressed, put on the new brake pads. The fronts are pretty self-explanatory, while the rears need to slide onto the groove on the circumference of the piston.
- Place the outside pad on the caliper carrier, and slide the caliper back onto the carrier.
- Push the pins back into the holes in the caliper carrier, and thread them in just a little past snug. Not sure what the torque rating is, so use your own judgment to make 'em "good and tight".
- Place the caps back on the rubber stubs.
- Put the retaining clip back onto the outside of the caliper. This can be kind'a tricky, so take your time and try a few different methods!
- Before you go on your test drive, PUMP THE BRAKES UP! The pedal will go to the floor the first time you apply it, so it's important that you do this before you move the car.

Let us know if you have any questions! It sounds complicated, but it's actually pretty simple, and all four corners can be done in 1.5-2 hours.
Is that pretty much it?

And lastly, the calipers are aluminium yes?

Thanks guys.
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  #18  
Old 12-19-2009, 02:36 PM
bifftuxedo1 bifftuxedo1 is offline
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Hey, longtime lurker, first post. Removing the calipers isnt too hard. If I remember correctly you will need a 16mm, 17mm socket and a 7mm allen socket. The calipers arent too hard to remove but putting them back together can be kind of a pain without an extra set of hands. I was nervous at first but it turned out out to be pretty easy, so easy that I wouldnt pay to get my pads or rotors changed. Good Luck
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  #19  
Old 12-20-2009, 12:08 AM
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Thanks and welcome. Hopefully I can get them off and back on without too much trouble.
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  #20  
Old 12-21-2009, 06:26 AM
ChubbyCheddarR53 ChubbyCheddarR53 is offline
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Found these on nam. It should help : p

http://www.northamericanmotoring.com...beginners.html

http://www.northamericanmotoring.com...beginners.html
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  #21  
Old 12-21-2009, 11:52 AM
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Cheers. Haven't been on NAM in a while hehe.
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  #22  
Old 12-21-2009, 05:06 PM
imortalsin84 imortalsin84 is offline
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brakes are simple i replaced my front and back rotors and pads within 30mins...if you need the tool for the rears you should be able to get a brake tool kit from harbor freight if you have one in your area for like $20
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  #23  
Old 12-25-2009, 07:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imortalsin84 View Post
brakes are simple i replaced my front and back rotors and pads within 30mins...if you need the tool for the rears you should be able to get a brake tool kit from harbor freight if you have one in your area for like $20
I don't think they are in Australia.

And I left my sockets at your house.
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  #24  
Old 12-25-2009, 07:44 PM
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new pads are always good.
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  #25  
Old 12-27-2009, 10:11 AM
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Thanks guys. I decided to leave the brakes on and work on them without taking them off. Can anyone say... polished calipers.
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  #26  
Old 12-27-2009, 06:28 PM
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polished calipers!
we need pictures plz
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  #27  
Old 12-29-2009, 06:57 AM
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Ive finished the rear calipers. Photos in my garage thread.

http://www.motoringunderground.com/f...t=10779&page=8
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