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  #376  
Old 05-20-2014, 07:29 PM
Blaxin41 Blaxin41 is offline
Y Rated - 186 mph
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Franklin, TN
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Do you run with unhooked front sway bar? No saving that boot! Doing my Driverside very soon as I already did the passenger. Luckily mine were caught in time to save them, just need to repackage with grease and a new boot.
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  #377  
Old 05-20-2014, 07:32 PM
Blaxin41 Blaxin41 is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Franklin, TN
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As for your fan, you can do the bypass or the DT kit but for $20 more you can buy a whole new fan assembly with the motor and new resistor. Drop it in and done. $72 on amazon prime, mine just got delivered today.
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  #378  
Old 05-20-2014, 08:16 PM
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rickyr53 rickyr53 is offline
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Location: arlington, va
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Its stupid how we all had the same axle problems! Oh and how we were never able to get all the minis together at the same time haha. You're car looked awesome in person.
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  #379  
Old 05-20-2014, 08:23 PM
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nathanrw nathanrw is offline
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Location: Middle Tennessee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blaxin41 View Post
Do you run with unhooked front sway bar? No saving that boot! Doing my Driverside very soon as I already did the passenger. Luckily mine were caught in time to save them, just need to repackage with grease and a new boot.
I have been since I put the bags on because they don't have any sway bar tabs. I'm going to get some welded on pretty soon though. I hate not having it connected. It's a ridiculous difference. Yeah I am getting a new passenger side axle ordered today and it should be in this week.

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Originally Posted by Blaxin41 View Post
As for your fan, you can do the bypass or the DT kit but for $20 more you can buy a whole new fan assembly with the motor and new resistor. Drop it in and done. $72 on amazon prime, mine just got delivered today.
Really? Link me. My dad has amazon prime so I'm about to order that bad boy today.
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  #380  
Old 05-20-2014, 08:31 PM
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nathanrw nathanrw is offline
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Originally Posted by rickyr53 View Post
Its stupid how we all had the same axle problems! Oh and how we were never able to get all the minis together at the same time haha. You're car looked awesome in person.
Yeah I know seriously! 5 people in one weekend and 4 of those people went to SoWo. Thanks man! Yours looked absolutely wild in person. The 10's work so well. Haha.
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  #381  
Old 05-21-2014, 06:32 PM
Knottyspence Knottyspence is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Florida
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I replaced my passenger side axle yesterday not fun.
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  #382  
Old 05-21-2014, 11:02 PM
RLB RLB is offline
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Sounds like a few Mini's that went to SOWO had axle issues on the way home. Are yours still OEM or are they aftermarket?
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  #383  
Old 05-23-2014, 07:59 AM
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nathanrw nathanrw is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knottyspence View Post
I replaced my passenger side axle yesterday not fun.
I still haven't even replaced mine yet… It's been more of a challenge than I thought it would…

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Originally Posted by RLB View Post
Sounds like a few Mini's that went to SOWO had axle issues on the way home. Are yours still OEM or are they aftermarket?
I have never had my axles go bad on me. Original ones that were on the car. 115,000 miles on the car and about 35,000 miles of driving low.

Well, I got a reman axle and attempted to tackle replacing it yesterday. I went to take the broken axle out, I was going to disconnect the tie rod and ball joint from the knuckle and just lean the knuckle towards me and tap the axle out. It's never that easy though is it? I got the tie rod out no problem (those had to be replaced months ago because they were seized up), but when I got to disconnecting the ball joints, they were completely seized to the control arm and to the knuckle. The control arm wouldn't drop off the bottom mount of the ball joint, and the top "plate" of the ball joint absolutely will not separate from the knuckle.I also tried leaving the ball joint connected and just taking the strut out of the knuckle to get the axle out. Got the strut out, and when I went to tap the axle out, the flipping axle is seized into the hub too. I have used almost 1/3 of a can of PB blaster, a heat gun, and about 5 hours total of hammering and prying trying to just get the control arm to drop off from one of those two places and to get the axle out of the hub but no luck. Is there anyone that has had the same problem? I figured it's probably all seized up because I ran on wheels with 10mm spacers that were hubcentric to the car but not to the wheels for about a year and a half, during that time I got ridiculous vibrations going down the interstate. I was 16 and stupid. I didn't know any better at the time, but I am definitely kicking myself for it now… Any input on getting these things off would be greatly appreciated. I feel like my only resort now is to cut the ball joints out. But I am trying to avoid buying new wheel hubs on top of my already purchased new axle and new ball joints.
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  #384  
Old 05-23-2014, 01:00 PM
Knottyspence Knottyspence is offline
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When disconnecting the control arm, are you trying to do the ingle bolt (17mm I think?) or the two smaller bolts up in there (13mm I'm pretty sure)? Undo the two and then tap the control arm with a hammer and it should come out. After that, you should be able to get the axle out of the hub, then go disconnect the bearing bracket (3 13mm bolts which are devils. I used a ratchet with a 6" extension for the outer one, and a 13mm ratcheting wrench for the inner two. Then it should all pull out.
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  #385  
Old 05-23-2014, 02:42 PM
RLB RLB is offline
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I swapped my axles when i had my subframe out to do ball joints and control arm bushings so it made getting those three bolts for the carrier bearing bracket a ton easier to get to. i also separated the tie rod end and the lower ball joint to get it out of the hub, but since i knew i would be replacing the lower ball joint i just used a pickle fork to separate it from the control arm.

I found out later that my lower ball joint was also seized in the spindle so that made removal a huge pain, but I didn't have any issues getting the axle out of the hub. I have about 120k miles on the car as well. If you still cant get the ball joint out of the spindle removing it from the control arm may be your best option. You can try to use a ball joint separator to do so, and it may not damage the boot but there aren't any guarantees there. As for the axle being stuck in the spindle I would just keep loading it up with PB in the splines and maybe take a mini sledge to the end of it to try to hammer it through. You are replacing the axle anyway so I wouldn't worry too much about damaging it.
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  #386  
Old 05-23-2014, 03:58 PM
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nathanrw nathanrw is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knottyspence View Post
When disconnecting the control arm, are you trying to do the ingle bolt (17mm I think?) or the two smaller bolts up in there (13mm I'm pretty sure)? Undo the two and then tap the control arm with a hammer and it should come out. After that, you should be able to get the axle out of the hub, then go disconnect the bearing bracket (3 13mm bolts which are devils. I used a ratchet with a 6" extension for the outer one, and a 13mm ratcheting wrench for the inner two. Then it should all pull out.
I tried both the two 13mm bolts and the 17mm single nut on the bottom where the control arm mounts to the ball joint… Neither would budge at all..

Quote:
Originally Posted by RLB View Post
I swapped my axles when i had my subframe out to do ball joints and control arm bushings so it made getting those three bolts for the carrier bearing bracket a ton easier to get to. i also separated the tie rod end and the lower ball joint to get it out of the hub, but since i knew i would be replacing the lower ball joint i just used a pickle fork to separate it from the control arm.

I found out later that my lower ball joint was also seized in the spindle so that made removal a huge pain, but I didn't have any issues getting the axle out of the hub. I have about 120k miles on the car as well. If you still cant get the ball joint out of the spindle removing it from the control arm may be your best option. You can try to use a ball joint separator to do so, and it may not damage the boot but there aren't any guarantees there. As for the axle being stuck in the spindle I would just keep loading it up with PB in the splines and maybe take a mini sledge to the end of it to try to hammer it through. You are replacing the axle anyway so I wouldn't worry too much about damaging it.
Yeah I tried removing the control arm from the ball joint instead and that didn't work either… Also, I tried the ball joint separator tool as well and it didn't work either… I have pretty much destroyed one of the ball joints trying to get it off the knuckle and trying to get the control arm to fall off of it so thats why I just went ahead and ordered new ones so I can just refresh my front suspension since I know I will have all of it apart.
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  #387  
Old 05-23-2014, 04:27 PM
RLB RLB is offline
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So you cant get the nut off the lower ball joint? That thing shouldn't be that tight. Do you access to air tools? An impact gun should zip that thing right off. Since you already destroyed the ball joint, get a pickle fork and a mini sledge. Wedge the fork between the ball joint and the control arm then go to town on it with the hammer. It will definitely pop out.

The fun part is going to get the ball joint out of the spindle though. I had to remove mini from the car and hammer the damn thing out. Both sides. I ended up doing the wheel bearings and hubs then too since I had them all apart. If you do remove the spindle just be careful puling the ABS sensor out. I managed to mess one of mine up.
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  #388  
Old 05-24-2014, 05:21 AM
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nathanrw nathanrw is offline
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Location: Middle Tennessee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RLB View Post
So you cant get the nut off the lower ball joint? That thing shouldn't be that tight. Do you access to air tools? An impact gun should zip that thing right off. Since you already destroyed the ball joint, get a pickle fork and a mini sledge. Wedge the fork between the ball joint and the control arm then go to town on it with the hammer. It will definitely pop out.

The fun part is going to get the ball joint out of the spindle though. I had to remove mini from the car and hammer the damn thing out. Both sides. I ended up doing the wheel bearings and hubs then too since I had them all apart. If you do remove the spindle just be careful puling the ABS sensor out. I managed to mess one of mine up.
No the nut came off no problem. But the control arm still won't drop off from the bottom of the ball joint at all. There is literally nothing there holding it but it still won't come off. It's like they have literally welded themselves together. I'm going to go at it again tomorrow at my buddies shop. He has the tools to cut it out if we need to. I will post on here to let you guys know how it goes.
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  #389  
Old 05-30-2014, 07:01 AM
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nathanrw nathanrw is offline
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Location: Middle Tennessee
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A little bit of an update.

My heater core which was only 6 months old decided to take a crap on me. Got some heater hose and clamps and bypassed it for the time being.

On the plus side though, I finally made the decision to take my back seats out, and I got a brass bleeder screw, a new coolant overflow tank cap (mine leaked like crazy), and got new OEM ball joints.

Click the image to open in full size.Untitled by NathanWaddey, on Flickr

Click the image to open in full size.Untitled by NathanWaddey, on Flickr


Also, I believe my WCI wheels may be for sale… Haven't officially made the decision yet but if I get a good price for them then I will let them go.

Asking $950 plus shipping

WCI CC10's 16x9 ET20 with 195/45/16 Accelera Deltas with 85% tread. A little bit of camber wear but not much else.

Click the image to open in full size.Untitled by NathanWaddey, on Flickr


And after all this mess is fixed and parts are replaced, I am debating selling the car stock and buying an '06 R53 with the updated headlights, tail lights, features, etc. and with much lower miles. Would pretty much just swap everything over to that one once the car was in my possession. Haven't officially made a decision yet but it would be a good way for me to build my credit with relatively low monthly payments.
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  #390  
Old 06-06-2014, 01:38 AM
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nathanrw nathanrw is offline
Y Rated - 186 mph
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Middle Tennessee
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I finally got the axle replaced and both ball joints replaced so the car is now on the road! Took about 5 minutes per ball joint to break the ball joints loose with a lift and an impact hammer.

Now all I need to do is:
Oil pan gasket
Lower Motor Mount
Upper Motor Mount
Transmission Mount
Get a new Alta CAI filter
Timing chain tensioner
New Radiator fan assembly
Replace driver side axle boot
and probably some other stuff I can't think of right now.

Then "cool" stuff to come in the future:
FINALLY getting a pulley reduction (16%)
Custom Exhaust
Three Spoke Steering Wheel Conversion
Roll Bar
Corbeau Sportline RRS or Corbeau FX1
Finish rear seat delete and relocation of air tank and compressor
Get new facelift Xenons
Get new tails/Euro tails
Get bumper fixed and resprayed
Get hood resprayed
LED's in all interior lights & for license plate lights
Get sway bar tabs welded to strut lower mounts

And the biggest one yet…. Finish my new wheels.
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