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  #76  
Old 03-18-2015, 03:21 PM
Chase Chase is offline
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woo woo. Bought time my friend. I havent heard from you in a while.

You gonna go to the dragon at all?
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  #77  
Old 03-18-2015, 03:29 PM
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BlwnAway BlwnAway is offline
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Yup, Capn' PM'd me the other day, shame on him for not telling you....
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  #78  
Old 03-21-2015, 08:14 PM
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poop i thought i did! haha
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  #79  
Old 06-30-2015, 01:28 PM
minsanity minsanity is offline
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Bring back Bolo!!!!
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  #80  
Old 05-18-2016, 04:02 AM
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BlwnAway BlwnAway is offline
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Well, after having to live down the shame of last year's premature announcement, I've been really apprehensive about posting my progress, but some pre-MOTD news has all but solidified the final piece of the puzzle for mid to late June (my clutch). Most everything else is done, bought and ready, the only thing I lack is my clutch and W/M kit.
Here's where I stand now:
Motor is done, transmission is cleaned up and ready for mating, all associated parts, gaskets and misc. items are bought and ready for install....(including, new idler pulley, clutch slave cylinder, updated Sprintex tensioner and vented filler bolt, New timing chain, Thumper extended chain tensioner bolt, Amsoil JCW Air Filter, seals and gaskets and other cosmetic goodies) Here's some of the details for those interested.

Motor came out a couple of months ago, besides all the piston squirters being snapped off, the bottom end was in phenomena condition, I'll be honest, had I not wanted to rebuild the motor anyway and looked closer at the head (I didn't even bother because I wanted to rebuild and just assumed the age of the motor was to blame for the loss in compression), I probably could have repaired the head, replaced the squirters and put it back together as is. I honestly feel like I probably could have gotten to at least 300k+ on that bottom end, it was that good.... And maybe even on the same clutch since this is what it liked like when it came out.

Original OEM w/ 212k miles.
Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

But no sense in crying about it now...lol, I'm really happy with what I've got.

Motor Specs:
Block Bored for a 77.5mm Piston
CP Pistons (77.5mm - 8.3:1)
Crower I-Beam Rods w/ ARP Bolts
King Rod & Main bearings
Balanced
Crank Polished
Mellings H/P Oil Pump
Block Decked .004
TPR Adjusted Cam Gear
TPR2rT Cylinder Head
Sprintex S/C w/ 60mm pulley

Here's the motor as it is now sitting in a cradle I made, I've since put it inside to fight the humidity while I wait for my clutch.

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A little Head Pron for you:

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Exhaust ports are matched to my header.

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Intake ports are opened up and intake is matched.

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Transmission was cleaned up and painted, with new seals all the way around.

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Clutch will be the OS Giken Blue and W/M will be the Aquamist HFS-3.

Once I get the clutch, everything will go back together and we'll do the appropriate tuning, then I'll add the W/M and start playing with the bottle

But in the meantime there will be some other things I want to try and get done like a rear seat delete and moving my bottle into the cabin of the car, so should be some more new postings soon.

Thanks Again for looking....
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Last edited by BlwnAway; 07-02-2016 at 03:16 AM..
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  #81  
Old 05-21-2016, 03:34 PM
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werD werD is offline
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Looks like the next 200K will be even more fun.

Hard to believe the clutch was in such good shape, a lot of freeway use?
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  #82  
Old 05-21-2016, 05:40 PM
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Yup, 212k in 8 yrs.
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  #83  
Old 08-01-2016, 05:27 AM
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BlwnAway BlwnAway is offline
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Clutch is due next weekend, so reassembly can finally start.
But in the meantime got one more project done:
Rear Seat Delete and new rear Floor Pans.
Started with a 24"x48" piece of cold rolled 18ga steel, normally I'd use aluminum or something thinner to cut weight, but I had decided to move the Bottle and W/M tank inside the cabin so the pans had to have some strength to them. Made some cardboard templates and got out the air shears, a few cuts, some grinding, a bunch of measuring and a little paint later and this is what I ended up with:
Drivers Side.

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Pass Side, w/ rivet nuts for Bottle brackets.

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Then just a little unbacked automotive carpet and some edge trim.

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Added a little plastic fiber foam for support.

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And installed.

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Harnesses fit around the bottle perfectly.

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Just hope the old one dies a fiery death.
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Last edited by BlwnAway; 08-01-2016 at 05:38 AM..
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  #84  
Old 10-04-2016, 10:14 PM
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BlwnAway BlwnAway is offline
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Well, the last 2 months have just been tedious and slow, between the heat and humidity, and little issues just taking a while to sort, last weekend was finally a good one...

Motor fired right off, oil pressure came right up, wouldn't idle or throttle due to a stuck throttle body, a quick poke with a finger to unstick it and all it's well. Fires up, idles and throttles prefect, only thing left to do is the rear brakes, front of the car is complete, reassembled and on the ground, just simply ran out of time, front brakes and wheels were a PITA from sitting for so long, had to clean out the lug threads to get the bolts to even seat against the wheel properly. The wheels have been on the rears this whole time so they shouldn't be as much of an issue.
Going to be the weekend before I can get first drive simply because of my work week.
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  #85  
Old 10-11-2016, 04:20 AM
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Finally back on the road, rear brakes were a pain, but it looks like the new pads will work OK for now with the old rotors. The only reason I haven't changed everything is because of the planned BBK and complete brake overhaul in early spring.

Motor runs well, of course I'll still be a little easy on it for a while before we start tuning, but it fires right up and doesn't miss a lick under normal throttle, extremely smooth and very free feeling, just seems to want to accelerate with little or no effort.

Only hold back to not driving it everywhere to get the break-in miles done is tires and P/S pump.
Rear tires had been on ramps for over a year now and have some dry rot cracks in them, 4 new ones on the way, should be here by Wed.
And, while I was checking the cooling system for leaks before it was all back together, P/S pump ran on and wouldn't shut off without pulling the battery cable, it's toast, won't come on at all, luckily it's the original and is covered under the recall, appointment to have it changed next Mon. Just have to remember to bring my big neon pink marker with me so I can write "Do Not Update The ECU" in big letters on the work order....
No biggie, I can always re-download the tune if they screw up....

Should only take a couple of weeks after that for the break-in to be done and tuning to begin, HFS-3 should be here by then also.
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  #86  
Old 10-19-2016, 01:03 AM
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New update, most things are going to plan, new tires are on, P/S pump was changed at Mini yesterday, and initial break-in oil has been changed. Oil and filter look excellent, so no red flags there.
Only thing so far is that boost is a little low at WOT so more back and forth miles this week to work and troubleshooting next weekend, car seems to run really smooth so I'm thinking must be something with a leak on the pressure side or maybe even belt slip (I doubt it's belt slip simply because it levels out and stays pretty smooth, but we are looking at the logs, just to be sure) A leak wouldn't really surprised me that much though, considering I've got 4 separate intake horn taps and a new intake plug and tap for one of my in car intake temp gauges. Soapy water here we come....

Plus I'm having an ozone treatment done this week (A convertible just sitting outside for 3 years requires a heavy duty freshening up, just slapping a little deodorant on, isn't quite enough) and possibly some cosmetic changes if I have time, thinking about match painting the wheel arches and body surrounds, and just so happens, there's a silver peel coat that is a pretty good match to Pure Silver, so at least I can experiment first.

Once the boost situation is sorted, the first stage of tuning can begin, I'm looking at 3 separate tuning phases:
Fuel only first, then with the W/M, then with the bottle. I'm hoping for end of Nov. to have it all done, but we'll see.
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  #87  
Old 10-25-2016, 11:04 PM
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Hell yes!
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  #88  
Old 11-10-2016, 01:50 AM
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BlwnAway BlwnAway is offline
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Latest update unfortunately isn't much of one.
Some of my boost issues have been sorted, and actually helped with something else too.

Ends up that I was getting some belt slip, (I was pretty certain that it was one of the issues) so I swapped back to my old tensioner system and all is good, even boost in all gears. And as an added benefit, the swap also got rid of some higher RPM clatter that I was hearing, so two thumbs up there.

But it's still a little lower than I anticipated with all the changes from before. Currently I'm seeing a hair under 18 psi and my previous setup had me right at 20, so considering changes to the motor and intake system, and that I was actually seeing more than most people were before. I was hoping to see 19 or so.

So last week I ordered some new O-Rings and gaskets to completely redo all the junction points from the S/C to the Head. (I did re-use some of these parts after doing a good visual inspection) Unfortunately Sprintex sent me the wrong O-Ring for the S/C to I/C horn connection,(which, when I disassembled the two, showed some signs of a possible leak, and even thought the O-Ring appears perfectly fine, I'm thinking there might have been some shrinkage while sitting) so I'm at a stand still until the new one arrives tomorrow.
Everything should go back together this weekend and barring any stupid mistakes on my part or glaring new issues, tuning should commence, break-in is done.
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Last edited by BlwnAway; 11-10-2016 at 02:06 AM..
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  #89  
Old 11-14-2016, 06:54 AM
noss noss is offline
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reading through your threads i know you don't like to say bad things about companies, but when you say you had trouble with the tensioner, was that the one from greece? will it just need a stiffer spring?

i'd be keen to know because i bought one in anticipation of buying a sprintex kit.
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  #90  
Old 11-14-2016, 05:32 PM
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BlwnAway BlwnAway is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noss View Post
reading through your threads i know you don't like to say bad things about companies, but when you say you had trouble with the tensioner, was that the one from greece? will it just need a stiffer spring?

i'd be keen to know because i bought one in anticipation of buying a sprintex kit.
It's not that I don't want to disparage companies, I just don't want to jump to conclusions without really understanding problems and the true cause of those problems, I've just seen to many cases of people jumping to conclusions and laying blame, where in my opinion, it shouldn't go. Esp. when it comes to the issues dealt with when modding, people seem to forget that when modifying engines and cars as a whole, often things don't come with the same guarantees that OEM offers. Anyone like me, who's been doing this since the 70's and earlier, has good first hand knowledge of how bad it used to be, when it came to this stuff.

My full assessment:
It was the GPR, my personal opinion is that it just needed a shorter belt with the 60mm pulley, the spring and system seems as good or better than the OEM Mini setup, and is stronger than the Sprintex setup, but when I was doing some calculations, the belt size reductions they suggest for the smaller pulleys is just slightly off, only problem is that with research I think I know why they suggest what they do, simple availability. The suggested belt for the 60mm pulley is a 1380, a 1375 will not fit without a smaller diameter idler, and the only other production size available is a specialty European 1377 that would require a 2 week order and shipping time. I simply didn't want to wait and find out it still didn't fit.

I personally never had a problem with the old setup, except for the touchy nature of the piston, it easily comes apart if you let it spring open on its own when doing belt changes, it's just something that BWM owners have dealt with. (it's a gates piston designed for a few BMW models)

With all those things in mind, I simply decided to try the old system again, and since it works and the GPR system is not the simplest of installs because of its physical size, I'm just sticking with it for now, instead of swapping back and forth and possibly finding out that the 1377 belt doesn't fit either.

As far as I know, I'm the only one that has had a problem with it and it seems to all stem from the smaller pulley on the S/C.

Also, if you use the GPR, there is a large Allen/Socket Cap headed bolt that attaches it to the engine block, I swapped mine out for a standard Hex head due to space issues and ease of installation, it was just difficult and slow to tighten with anything more than a basic Allen wrench.
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