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Safety & Race Preparation Roll cages, harnesses, seats, weight reduction, etc. Anything pertaining to taking your car to the highest level of performance.

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  #31  
Old 06-23-2009, 10:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheWanderer View Post
Why not just go buy some materials and go to measuring and cutting? It seems to be a very cheap thing to do.
x2

$20 for 4' x 8' MDF
$20 for Carpet
$20 for a power saw if you don't have one.

Posting these because I love inspiration. The skills are ridiculous.

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  #32  
Old 06-24-2009, 12:15 AM
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damn thats some mad fab skills .... Im not that talented lol
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  #33  
Old 06-24-2009, 05:59 AM
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I made one that cover just the area where the seat was. It was pretty easy. Took a piece of cardboard and made a template. Cut out the real deal, needed a few adjustments but not many. Carpeted it. Didnt take long, and it only cost me $30, compared to the $150 for the cheap plastic ones that dont look as good and do the same thing

Im sure it isnt much more difficult to make it cover the entire rear
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  #34  
Old 06-24-2009, 09:30 AM
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This sounds like a good project for the winter.
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  #35  
Old 06-24-2009, 12:53 PM
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i like the custom ones myself, but if anyone wants one, i've got a crappy plastic one that i sort of inherited and don't have any use for.
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  #36  
Old 06-24-2009, 05:41 PM
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I tried doing this last night with some cardboard and failed completely. I cant get the curvature of the back seat arm rests right

I even used the seat as a template but since it doesnt sit flat it didnt work out too well.
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  #37  
Old 06-24-2009, 06:01 PM
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This was my approach,

I took a used Shrader RSD that I got from a friend and then covered it in Auto carpet. I then cut out a piece of sound deadening foam left over from my recording studio and cut a piece to fit the underside of the plastic panel. I also used the same foam to fit just above the gas tanks and use this area for a nice little storage area.

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This worked out really well and gave a nice OEM look but, I still was unhappy with the space left behind it. So, I made a nice little floor extension out of plywood and left over auto carpet. Now I have a completely flat floor ! The rear panel can be lifted straight out if need be and has a small space as storage and to conceal things.

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  #38  
Old 06-24-2009, 06:28 PM
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  #39  
Old 06-24-2009, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by pauliekeys View Post
This was my approach,

I took a used Shrader RSD that I got from a friend and then covered it in Auto carpet. I then cut out a piece of sound deadening foam left over from my recording studio and cut a piece to fit the underside of the plastic panel. I also used the same foam to fit just above the gas tanks and use this area for a nice little storage area.

Click the image to open in full size.

This worked out really well and gave a nice OEM look but, I still was unhappy with the space left behind it. So, I made a nice little floor extension out of plywood and left over auto carpet. Now I have a completely flat floor ! The rear panel can be lifted straight out if need be and has a small space as storage and to conceal things.

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Thats exactly what I want
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  #40  
Old 06-24-2009, 07:01 PM
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Does the R56 come with the same false floor that the clubman does? I wonder if it would fit.

It looks just like that and creates the flat floor...but it folds which is awesome.
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  #41  
Old 06-24-2009, 07:37 PM
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every r56 loaner that i've had from the dealer did not include any sort of folding floor.

i think that's clubman only (suckers)
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  #42  
Old 06-24-2009, 09:53 PM
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This is the method I will likely use when I make my rear seat delete.

covered foam delete

Won't really sit anything on it, but also won't be deadly if it becomes a projectile.
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  #43  
Old 06-26-2009, 04:06 AM
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How would that metal plate behind the rear seats be mounted?
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  #44  
Old 06-26-2009, 07:41 AM
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made mine out of fabric covered mdf (only need a 2x4 foot on an hatch) on top of the seat bottoms. the seat bottoms help with road noise and only weigh like 5 pounds total and my little shovel (entrenching tool really) doesn't rattle around. also nice if I want to bring a laptop. I left the back bracket in place an notched the mdf. That acts as a pivot so I didn't have to hinge it (plus I won't have to hunt for it if I want to re-seat the back) no pictures but I'll take one tomorrow
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  #45  
Old 06-26-2009, 07:44 AM
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oh and for a cheap way to do the side curves get some 14 gauge solid core electrical wire and bend a wireform then trace it onto your board. triple check your point to point measurements and cut away.
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