Tools and Techniques!

[hollis3]

I would recommend taking it back either way...

"if" they messed something up with that much over-torquing, having them work on it will give you more proof than your word... and make sure the "manager" knows about it.

[boxerboy43]

Originally Posted by jeffC

My question is am I still too low in power? Or is it because the lugs are just soooo over torqued the only way to get them off would be to use whatever professional grade tools the shop used? Thanks in advance, at worst I guess I'll go to the shop tomorrow AM and bitch.

usually if i cant get lugs off with my air wrench, my 1'6" ratchet does just fine with some elbow grease. if not, aquire some heavy piping and just slip it over the ratchet, that usually works as a good lever.

Hope that helps some

[minimark]

Originally Posted by hollis3

I would recommend taking it back either way...

"if" they messed something up with that much over-torquing, having them work on it will give you more proof than your word... and make sure the "manager" knows about it.

What he said...

[jC]

where it gets confusing is I've had the same problem twice from my MINI dealer too, the second time when I did complain and told them to retorque them properly...maybe I need to to more pushups or something

The only reason why I don't think it's just because I am weak is I've snapped 3 lock keys trying to get them off...so I dunno.

[boxerboy43]

Originally Posted by jeffC

I've snapped 3 lock keys trying to get them off...so I dunno.

wow!

[polyclef]

with an impact wrench it is all about the CFM and at what pressure. Even a 15 gal compressor is at the very low end for an effective use of an impact wrench. I would suggest a 25 gal with 5+ CFM at about 90psi. There are some in the 25-30 gal range with wheels that make them nice to roll around.

Also, if those lugs are over tightened that bad you probably want to replace them.

[brownMINI]

righty-tighty / lefty-loosey

[AstroBlackS]

For automotive stuff, this site has a bunch of great stuff.
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net

I got my OBDII reader there,
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/EQS-3110.html

I love it!

[AstroBlackS]

Anyone know where I can get a very low profile jack that's not $500+?

I want this one, but it's sooo much.
http://www.drivewerks.com/catalog/sh...ACHyd1_pg1.htm

[glnr13]

here's a tip, get 2 2x4's or 2x6's, drive on to them, then slide the jack under the jackpoint

[blkcoop]

Originally Posted by glnr13

here's a tip, get 2 2x4's or 2x6's, drive on to them, then slide the jack under the jackpoint

ooo MacGyver style ... thats for having lots of rims already.

[josef]

triple A card, and a credit card are the best tools

[Flamez]

Since I've been doing some work lately I thought this might be a good time to add to this thread...

From a Cooldaddy post in the iPhone app thread: http://motoringunderground.com/forum...023#post406023

Originally Posted by cooldaddy

perhaps I missed the post, but measuring camber with the iPhone

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=325556

[Flamez]

And some nice tool finds in the Harbor Freight tool thread: http://www.motoringunderground.com/f...ad.php?t=14604

[Flamez]

And since I've been mounting and dismounting wheels alot lately, I discovered these little gems that euro car owners with lug bolts will find very useful:

Back in the good old days (pre-80's), just about all car manufacturers used wheel studs and lug nuts as a means of attaching wheels to the car's hubs. Many US and just about all Japanese car makers still use studs although the Europeans (Alfa, Audi, BMW, Ferrari, Mercedes, Porsche 996/Boxster, Saab, VW & Volvo) are fairly unanimous in their use of wheel bolts.

Using lug bolts avoids stud and wheel damage when mounting the wheels onto the car. However, aligning the wheel's bolt holes with the matching holes on the hubcentric hub can be difficult, especially when using wheel spacers or mounting today's larger sized wheel and tire combinations. When the wheel slips off the hubcentric hub ring as you try to align the holes, it can damage the wheel or caliper finish, the backing plate or injure the person doing the work as their hands become covered with brake soot. Try changing today's large diameter (17"- 20" wheels with tires) without this tool and you'll see what I mean.....its a lot easier to simply phone for "roadside assistance".

Manufacturers have recognized these problems to some degree and have included factory tools, apparently as a casual afterthought considering the quality of these products, to help guide the wheel onto the hub. BMW uses an arbor drift with a plastic tip (try holding the arbor, the wheel and the lug bolt with only 2 hands), Audi offers a plastic threaded hanger (I've got 2 with the threaded ends snapped off) and Mercedes includes an aluminum threaded guide with their sedans (a little weak in my opinion....Mercedes must think so too as they don't include one with the current M-class trucks).

Using the Guide Tool: For most applications, 1 tool is sufficient. When using a single guide, position the wheel hub so that one of the hub holes is at the 12 o'clock position. Grab the wheel/tire assembly and hold it with the matching wheel hole at 12 o'clock. Using the tool as a guide, slide the wheel onto the hub's centering ring. The wheel will hang on the guide while you install the lug bolts, tightening them with your socket to seat the wheel. Remove the tool and install the final bolt. After snugging all of the bolts, lower the car and torque to factory specs. (Note- the tool can also help prevent accidental damage when removing your wheels. The 4 1/2" extension allows you to slide the wheel away from the hub and caliper without contact.).

The tool is also useful when replacing brake rotors. It will ensure that the lug holes in the rotor are perfectly aligned with the holes in the wheel hub. If your car uses rotor retainer screws (eg, BMW), install these screws with the tool guide in place.

http://www.ultimategarage.com/wheelhgr.html






http://www.wheelhanger.com/
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...SAABTL_pg1.htm

I bought mine from the eBay store of RADUSA, since the same hangers where cheaper after shipping than either their own web site or their Amazon.com storefront. You will need the 12x1.5 thread pitch version for 1st gen MINI's without the newer 14mm lug bolts. BTW, I highly recommend buying two of these for easiest use with the MINI's 4 bolt lug pattern.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Alumi...9931QQtcZphoto
Their eBay storefront: http://stores.ebay.com/Otis-Inc-LA
http://www.radusadirect.com/

Edit: I've emailed RADUSA/Otis Inc to ask them to make a batch of the wheel hangers in the newer MINI thread pitch (14x1.25). We'll see what happens.