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Accelerating From engines to gearboxes--tuning the parts that make your car go.

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  #1  
Old 02-29-2012, 10:10 PM
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Default Canyon Motorsports climbing back from the ashes...

This thread was created to give a glimpse behind the black curtain of secrecy to show how we are building our next R53 high compression turbo race engine & reactivate the Canyon Motorsports MINI racing program.


1st a brief history;


The #4 Canyon Motorsports MINI has been parked & out of commission since January 2009 when I stopped working with Hubie & Eddie at ABF Motoring.

Hubie & ABF were partners with Canyon Motorsports since 2005 when he was working with Fireballed racing until he burnt our bridge & we smoked our last engine in January 2009.

Just two months earlier November 2008 at the Super Lap Battle finals we set a MINI track record at Buttonwillow with a engine that we dropped a valve with at the U.S. Touring car race earlier in 2008.

The night before the the Super Lap Battle Hubie, Dan from DEP Race Prep & I pulled an all nighter trying to salvage the motor that dropped a valve in the USTCC race.

We scabbed the engine back together by removing the bad head & sanding the damage piston top & cylinder with emery-cloth & putting back a completely stock head. (the crazy shit we did to make it to the track)

No sleep and a wounded engine is all I had to compete with, but managed to run a two minute lap. Which stood as a MINI track record for two years until Ian & the RMW car knocked the record down another 2 seconds to a 1.58 (congrats Ian & RMW )

Just to give some perspective of just how fast a 1.58 & 2.00 lap is When the USTCC race was run at Buttonwillow in 2008 The winner turned a 2.04 best lap!

Enough on the history.
Time to start building our 2 new engine's.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

These photos show the failed forged pistons & pins we pulled from the old race engine.
The pistons got so super heated from the turbo's 20+ psi boost & started to seize in the cylinders. We also killed the wrist pins if you can see they too seized & wore out into an hour glass shape.

Click the image to open in full size.

I switched piston & pin manufactures to B.W.E. Bruce Walker Enterprise an old friend & ex owner of Child's & Albert racing. Bruce made quit a few changes to better suit our turbo application, some you can see such as the thermal barrier coating on the tops & the Teflon coating on the skirts.

My next post in this series will address the "blueprinting" process we do to our engines.

Cheers
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Last edited by CANYON MINI; 03-01-2012 at 02:01 AM..
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Old 02-29-2012, 10:59 PM
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Moar!
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Old 03-01-2012, 12:09 AM
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moar x 2!
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omgzz
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Old 03-01-2012, 12:13 AM
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x3!
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Old 03-01-2012, 12:16 AM
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X4!
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Old 03-01-2012, 05:31 AM
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i am addicted all ready. thanks for posting bob. Gotta love this stuff.

Gonna have to talk to you about some turbo stuff soon
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Old 03-01-2012, 06:27 AM
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Can't wait to see this take off again Bob. Best of luck to you.
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Old 03-01-2012, 06:54 AM
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subscribed. what compression is considered high for a turbo application? 9.6:1ish?
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Old 03-01-2012, 02:28 PM
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10:1 and 10.5:1
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Old 03-01-2012, 02:44 PM
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Ready to see it back on the track Bob!
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Old 03-01-2012, 07:01 PM
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Can't wait to see more!
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Old 03-01-2012, 07:09 PM
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Before I start talking about assembly, I think it's important to to define my goals in this build.

Design & build a 10:1 high compression R53 1.6L turbo engine, that will hold up to the rigors of pro road racing for one complete season, or one year whichever comes first. I usually timeout, tear-down & refresh engines at 50 hours of use which is about a full season including required dyno tuning time.

Do to the extreme abuse the cylinder wall sustained when we dropped the valve in, we had to machine the block to a .020" overbore to cleanup the mess. I have my machinist finish hone to exact piston to wall clearance recommended by the piston manufacturer I'm using, because they know the exact expansion rate of the particular aluminum alloy the use in there forgings.
Click the image to open in full size.


First thing is getting the block up on the engine assembly stand. Then we measure, measure & measure some more all the details of the machining process to confirm all bore are perfect both dimensionally and finish honed to perfection & install new brass freeze plugs. (I prefer a fairly aggressive finish hone because I want the ring to seat in right away, so we can go right to the dyno & start tuning away.)

I then apply a black thermal heat dispersant paint coating on the outside of the engine block.

Click the image to open in full size.

Crank shaft is micro polished & all oil holes are chamferd for better oil film distribution across the bearing shell surface. Once again after the crank is all bolted down & torqued to perfection ,we then check every dimension again & spin then crank by hand to confirm everything is happy.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

We then turn the engine & our focus to the part I find to be the most tedious & time consuming adjusting all the piston ring end gaps to the proper tolerances.

I use an old piston as a tool to push the piston ring down evenly to check & adjust the gaps.


Click the image to open in full size.

To simplify ring end gaping we use a hand turned ring end gap grinder. (B.W.E.) is a great source for one of these bad boys. ( They also sells an electric model too.)

(Here's a little trick some engine builders are unaware of, only grind on one side of the ring not both like many do. Fast yes, but it's better to maintain the factory edge on one side, because it keep the gaps truer & you only have to finish dress the one side of the ring too.)

I need to take a break now my head is hurting from converting mm to inches, alls I can see when I close my eyes is .03937=1mm.

Next post we will start talking about connecting rods.



Cheers
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Last edited by CANYON MINI; 03-01-2012 at 07:16 PM..
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Old 03-01-2012, 07:23 PM
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Great info! Do you plan on balancing the whole assembly or is that unnecessary since you're going for a lower-revving turbo vs a high-revving NA?
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Old 03-01-2012, 11:30 PM
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very good info. thanks
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Old 03-01-2012, 11:53 PM
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like this thread
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MINI RSR- 2004 MCS______MINI....FTW !
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1997 E36 M3 sedan slicktop w/LS1 swap
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Slugbut the 2002 WRX Wagon SOLD

seriousrrry
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