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  #1  
Old 02-02-2017, 02:59 PM
Mini_Chan Mini_Chan is offline
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Default no boost

I installed a mechanical boost gauge, and my car shows no boost. The vacuum reading is all normal, but when I'm driving it, the needle never goes past 0. My car has over 100k miles, so what could be causing this? Even when using an obd reader it most boost I get was 2psi. If anyone has ran into this issue, and how you fixed it?
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  #2  
Old 02-02-2017, 11:54 PM
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BlwnAway BlwnAway is offline
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It has to be a leak, you'd ABSOLUTELY know if you weren't getting actual boost.
2 quick questions:
-What OBDII scanner/tool are you using?
-Did you check it prior to doing the gauge install?
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  #3  
Old 02-03-2017, 12:06 AM
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Oh...probably doesn't need to be said, but don't drive the car hard, a boost leak this substantial could very easily effect fuel rail pressure and cause a lean out condition under high RPM WOT conditions.
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  #4  
Old 02-03-2017, 01:17 AM
Mini_Chan Mini_Chan is offline
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Its one of those bluetooth obd scanner that connects to the torque app on the phone. I didn't check it prior to the gauge install. However I have noticed that when in 4,5, and 6 gear, my car struggles to go past 4k rpm. Where should I start looking for a boost leak?
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  #5  
Old 02-03-2017, 01:55 AM
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Ok, it's directly reading off the MAP sensor in the intake then (most do, just wanted to make sure to avoid unnecessary work)
First, disconnect the line to the gauge, preferably where you tapped in, simply plug the T off. Run the car and check the app again.
This will remove the new component to the system out of the picture up front, and help to narrow things down.

If the leak still persists, the next place to look is the line going to the manifold under the S/C intake horn and the line going to the Fuel Regulator, these will be the most common places. (Engine heat dries these lines, and moving anything from installing the gauge could bring out a problem that wasn't there earlier)
To Do this you need to remove the intercooler, so make sure you also clean your I/I/C boots well. (A little brake cleaner on a rag/towel works well)

Since you've taken off the I/C, also trace the line from the Fuel Regulator as far back as you can, it will also attach to the BPV, do a good visual on it as well.
Unfortunately after all this, all you can do if nothing was obvious, is to put everything back together and give it a try.

If none of this fixes the problem I'll do my best to help from there, vacuum and boost leaks that aren't obvious (esp boost only leaks, since many times they only become apparent under pressure) can be very frustrating (took me many disassemble and reassemble hours to find mine) it is really just a matter of diligence sometimes.
Good Luck
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  #6  
Old 02-03-2017, 02:37 AM
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I actually changed out the lines going to the manifold and the fuel regulator. The old lines were like you said, dried up, so I replaced it when I changed out the tubing for the gauge. I already took a look at the BPV and the spring tension is still good. I think my problems is related to something else. I still don't know why my car can't go past 4k rpm at higher gears. I also have no check engine lights. The last thing I changed in the car was the camshaft sensor. I thought that would solve my issues, but after changing it, I still had problems.
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  #7  
Old 02-03-2017, 03:03 AM
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Zip your your BPV closed, this will tell you if it's simply venting your boost back into the intake system, when it shouldn't be, this would also account for the "no code" issue.
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  #8  
Old 02-03-2017, 06:05 AM
Mini_Chan Mini_Chan is offline
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this is a silly question, but how do i ziptie it closed?
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  #9  
Old 02-03-2017, 05:40 PM
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It's naturally closed, so zip tie the arm from the vacuum actuator so that it doesn't move.
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  #10  
Old 02-03-2017, 06:11 PM
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oh alright sounds easy enough. thanks i'll try it out this weekend and see if there is a difference.
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  #11  
Old 02-17-2017, 05:26 PM
Mini_Chan Mini_Chan is offline
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so after zip tying the bpv there was no change in the boost reading... I plugged in my cigarette volt meter and noticed voltage was low (12.5 - 13.5) I changed the alternator in the summer, and after wards it was in the 14s. Could my belt, belt tensioner, or crank pulley cause the low voltage?
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  #12  
Old 02-17-2017, 09:15 PM
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Yes a slipping belt could cause both the low boost and low voltage.
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  #13  
Old 02-18-2017, 05:15 AM
Mini_Chan Mini_Chan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlwnAway View Post
Yes a slipping belt could cause both the low boost and low voltage.
If the belt was slipping wouldn't I hear a squeaking noise or something?
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  #14  
Old 02-18-2017, 04:34 PM
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That's why I didn't mention it earlier, it real should be pretty noticeable. That's also why I though it may simply be a leak that's only really effecting the sensor and gauge readings, actually having no boost, should also be very noticeable.
But
Stranger things have happened.

These kinds of things can simply be more annoying than anything when it comes to diagnosing, just make sure when you do check things and make changes, that you do them one at a time, it's not unheard of to have a few small problems all at once.
Good Luck.
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