motoring|underground  
Register FAQ Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Blog

Cornering Optimizing your suspension system.

Go Back   motoring|underground > On the Lifts > Cornering
Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #1  
Old 04-25-2013, 04:36 PM
GOK4RT GOK4RT is offline
N Rated - 87 mph
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 7
Default Popping and Creaking

So. I installed a set of coilovers on my R56 Mini Cooper S about a month ago. I got it down about 2.1" from stock height. Appart from my negative camber lol.
I have some issues. I started hearing a Popping noise from my steering wheel when I turn it all the way. It sounds really loud and you can feel it a little in the steering. Also creaking noises from the rear of the car when I pull away and when I am going slow over bumpy areas.
My guess is.. because everything is installed correctly and tightened right.
I need new Sway Links all around?
I need new Top Mounts? Although these have about 3500km on them (1500Miles)
Has anyone else experienced this crap?

Some Pics:

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 04-25-2013, 05:41 PM
Rally's Avatar
Rally Rally is offline
μ
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Newport Beach, Calif.
Posts: 32,222
Send a message via AIM to Rally
Default

Did you disconnect the rear swaybar for any reason? Clunking like that generally comes from loose swaybar links. The other possible cause is the upper mount of the rear coilover. If not tightened properly or if the bushings were installed in the wrong order, that can leave some play that would cause a clunk. Clunks are generally something loose somewhere from install.

The popping noise is probably the front coils binding with the steering.
__________________
Click the image to open in full size.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 04-25-2013, 05:58 PM
GOK4RT GOK4RT is offline
N Rated - 87 mph
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 7
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rally View Post
Did you disconnect the rear swaybar for any reason? Clunking like that generally comes from loose swaybar links. The other possible cause is the upper mount of the rear coilover. If not tightened properly or if the bushings were installed in the wrong order, that can leave some play that would cause a clunk. Clunks are generally something loose somewhere from install.

The popping noise is probably the front coils binding with the steering.
Well, The Rear I am pretty sure is the Sway Links. They are too big. I need smaller ones. The front I am torn between Sway Links or Something else...
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 04-25-2013, 06:06 PM
Rally's Avatar
Rally Rally is offline
μ
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Newport Beach, Calif.
Posts: 32,222
Send a message via AIM to Rally
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by GOK4RT View Post
Well, The Rear I am pretty sure is the Sway Links. They are too big. I need smaller ones.
Too big?
__________________
Click the image to open in full size.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 04-25-2013, 06:22 PM
Flamez's Avatar
Flamez Flamez is offline
Leadership
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: At work
Posts: 11,811
Default

Spring binding?
__________________
Click the image to open in full size.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 04-25-2013, 07:38 PM
GOK4RT GOK4RT is offline
N Rated - 87 mph
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 7
Default

Sorry I meant to say Too Long not Too Big. Whats Spring Binding?
Honestly I have been lowering cars for like 6 years never had an issue...
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 04-25-2013, 08:21 PM
justintime's Avatar
justintime justintime is offline
μ
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: hunting man bearpig
Posts: 8,289
Send a message via AIM to justintime Send a message via Yahoo to justintime
Default

i've had 3 different mini camber plates, they all have creeked and popped.
__________________
Click the image to open in full size.


omgzz
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 04-25-2013, 08:42 PM
Flamez's Avatar
Flamez Flamez is offline
Leadership
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: At work
Posts: 11,811
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by GOK4RT View Post
Whats Spring Binding?
Quote:
Coil-bind is only found on McPherson strut applications due to the nature of the strut design. Coil-bind is a "springy" noise that only occurs at low speeds while turning the wheel. Typically, coil-bind is usually experienced for example when maneuvering at slow speeds in a parking lot, where speeds are low and there are a lot of steering angle inputs. The "springy" noises is distinct from the sharper, more direct noises that occur when the assembly is loose and a component is rattling and clunking around from the miscellaneous loads stressed upon the coil-over assembly.

Many times, coil-bind is difficult to diagnose and fix-- some vehicles experience this moreso than others, and it is not a brand-specific issue. What we have suggested as a coil-bind remedy is to apply grease to the upper and lower spring isolators, also referred to as noise prevention cushions. Grease should also be applied to the lower and upper pillow-ball bearing-- this step may require disassembly of the entire coil-over unit.
More here: http://www.meganracing.com/tech/faqs...37&subject=CDK

A few other remedies found here: http://www.motoringunderground.com/f...020#post760020
__________________
Click the image to open in full size.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 04-26-2013, 07:45 AM
Rally's Avatar
Rally Rally is offline
μ
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Newport Beach, Calif.
Posts: 32,222
Send a message via AIM to Rally
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by GOK4RT View Post
Sorry I meant to say Too Long not Too Big. Whats Spring Binding?
Honestly I have been lowering cars for like 6 years never had an issue...
Your rear sway links aren't too long. I can guarantee that's not the cause. The only reason people run adjustables in the rear is to make adjustments. The OEM ones are fine in terms of length.
__________________
Click the image to open in full size.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 04-26-2013, 03:03 PM
onasled's Avatar
onasled onasled is offline
Y Rated - 186 mph
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Hampton, Ct
Posts: 338
Default

Absolutely spring bind.
__________________
http://www.motoringunderground.com/forum/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=1037&dateline=1232243  339
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 04-26-2013, 03:06 PM
GOK4RT GOK4RT is offline
N Rated - 87 mph
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 7
Default

Well, thanks gues for answering... I wonder what all that deep toned creaking is while I pull away from a stop or over uneven roads.
So you are saying that OEM Sway links are perfect length?
Maybe what I will do today is take off my wheels and start to lube everything up and see what happens from then. Maybe the Sway Bar bushings are too dry?
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 04-26-2013, 03:18 PM
onasled's Avatar
onasled onasled is offline
Y Rated - 186 mph
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Hampton, Ct
Posts: 338
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by GOK4RT View Post
Well, thanks gues for answering... I wonder what all that deep toned creaking is while I pull away from a stop or over uneven roads.
So you are saying that OEM Sway links are perfect length?
Maybe what I will do today is take off my wheels and start to lube everything up and see what happens from then. Maybe the Sway Bar bushings are too dry?
OK, as far as I see it you do have spring binding up front. I feel 99% certain on this. Lube will NOT help. Not knowing what suspension mods you have will make it a hard call on what the solution is, but most likely your top perches are bound up against the towers

The other noses could be this. When lowering a Mini this much you have now bound up the suspension pickups, bushings, a bit. The rear bushing on the front control arm is stressing out as it really needs to be pulled out and rotated so it now matches your ride height and angle of the control arm.
The rear trailing arm bushing is a much easier fix, but as it sits now it's bound up. With the car at ride height you need to loosen the control are pivot bolt. This will release the bind of that bushing. At the same time, before you tighten that pivot bolt back up you should do the same with all EIGHT rear control arm bolts as they are also now binding (unless you are running solid rod ends now). This will get the rear back to zero bind. Then tighten everything back up to torque specs.

Just can be lowing cars without doing all these things.
__________________
http://www.motoringunderground.com/forum/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=1037&dateline=1232243  339
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 04-26-2013, 03:25 PM
Flamez's Avatar
Flamez Flamez is offline
Leadership
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: At work
Posts: 11,811
Default

Look at the products in those links I posted.
__________________
Click the image to open in full size.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 04-26-2013, 04:26 PM
GOK4RT GOK4RT is offline
N Rated - 87 mph
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 7
Default

Alright Thanks guys. I will look into this stuff. Nice to hear that I most likely wont be needing Adjustable Sway Links.
I will work on my suspension today and let you guys know what happens.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 04-28-2013, 03:18 AM
GOK4RT GOK4RT is offline
N Rated - 87 mph
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 7
Default

Well, It seems as if everything is fine. I had a few people come in the car with me and take it for a drive and everyone is telling me I need new Sway Bar Bushings. Anyone have any problems with those.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


CURRENT MOON

All times are GMT. The time now is 06:26 AM.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.1
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
2005 motoring|underground, all rights reserved.