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  #31  
Old 01-24-2006, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simplygriff
Curious...
Can the strut bar that these were derived from be added to these plates later? What are the pros & cons of the bar? I know they'll make the front more rigid (an explanation of what this means in the real world would be great...Ivan? ) but I've heard that's kinda unnecessary for a primarily street car.

I only ask because the bar and plates in only $90 more that the plates by themselves. Not that I have an extra $90 to spend right now but If I was ever going to get the bar it would make sense to get it instead of getting solely the plates.
-G
On stock suspension, I doubt it would do very much at all. However, with some suspension upgrades and R-compound (or Kumho Ecsta MX / Falken Azenis RT-615) tires, I think it would likely make a considerable difference. Take a look at this article and let me know if you have any questions:

http://e30m3performance.com/myths/St...bar_theory.htm
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  #32  
Old 01-24-2006, 07:56 PM
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Cool. I read that over. A little over my head but it makes sense. I think I would just get the plates for now. If I start to track the car look into a strut bar. Otherwise it's not really going to do anything but look pretty.
-G
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  #33  
Old 01-24-2006, 08:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simplygriff
Curious...
Can the strut bar that these were derived from be added to these plates later?
No, the Strut Tower Plates can not have the bar added later. The STP don't have the mounting holes for the brace and the STPs also have a machined pocket in them that the Strut Tower Brace plates don't have.

As Randy said, if you decide later on you'd rather have the brace you could probably turn the STP's around pretty easily in one of the Marketplace forums.
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  #34  
Old 01-24-2006, 08:14 PM
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That's what I needed to know. Thanks much!
-G
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  #35  
Old 01-24-2006, 09:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simplygriff
Cool. I read that over. A little over my head but it makes sense. I think I would just get the plates for now. If I start to track the car look into a strut bar. Otherwise it's not really going to do anything but look pretty.
-G
Well, to put it into basic terms, cornering forces cause the strut tower to deform outwards, away from the centerline of the car. When this happens, it can reduce the amount of effective camber in the front wheels, resulting in a lower cornering limit, as it forces the tire to ride along its outside edge instead of being square with the ground. On the other side of the coin, riding up a driveway diagonally has the opposite effect, forcing the strut tower to deform inwards, towards the centerline of the car.

So basically, once you start getting into stickier tires and suspension modifications, a strut tower brace is a damned good idea. I don't have one yet, but I'm sure I'll get one eventually.
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  #36  
Old 01-24-2006, 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by iDiaz
So basically, once you start getting into stickier tires and suspension modifications, a strut tower brace is a damned good idea. I don't have one yet, but I'm sure I'll get one eventually.
Word. That's what I was thinking.
-G
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  #37  
Old 02-02-2006, 01:40 PM
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I actually just ordered one from world one performance. I dont need one yet by any means..and at the moment..it will most likely just increase understeer since I dont even have a rear sway bar yet lol but it was a good deal on the M7 ($195shipped) so I snatched it up. plus.. im worried about that mushrooming crap so..havin that on there should help make sure that doesnt happen. 22mm alta rear swaybar will be as soon as the tax return hits haha

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  #38  
Old 02-02-2006, 02:05 PM
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A quick note on Strut Tower braces, and specifically the M7 one: Preloading is a godsend! I ran it with no preload for a while, and it was good. But this last weekend I loosened the brace, jacked one side of the car up, and tightened it again. It was clear that the position of the bolts had moved. I then lowered the car, and tugged on the brace a little. Very tight, and it helped the stability of the car immediately! I highly recommend you do this, since it's not difficult and it really does help.
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  #39  
Old 02-02-2006, 02:29 PM
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Cool thanks for the tip, ill be sure and do that when I install it. So just jack under the front jackpoint on one side? or lift that whole side up on both jack points front and rear?

DM
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  #40  
Old 02-02-2006, 03:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Will
A quick note on Strut Tower braces, and specifically the M7 one: Preloading is a godsend! I ran it with no preload for a while, and it was good. But this last weekend I loosened the brace, jacked one side of the car up, and tightened it again. It was clear that the position of the bolts had moved. I then lowered the car, and tugged on the brace a little. Very tight, and it helped the stability of the car immediately! I highly recommend you do this, since it's not difficult and it really does help.
good call will....thanks
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  #41  
Old 02-02-2006, 03:47 PM
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So i take it, if this mushrooming happens, the dealer won't fix this under warrranty? especially if you got lowering springs or coilovers?
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  #42  
Old 02-02-2006, 04:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hulles
Cool thanks for the tip, ill be sure and do that when I install it. So just jack under the front jackpoint on one side? or lift that whole side up on both jack points front and rear?

DM
Well, you could do it either way. The easy way that works is to jack up one side and tighten it down.
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  #43  
Old 02-02-2006, 05:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Konky
So i take it, if this mushrooming happens, the dealer won't fix this under warrranty?
The mushrooming can be addressed under warranty, however the fix is to basically bash the strut tower back down into shape. Personally, I'm not a fan of deforming metal in one direction (the mushrooming) only to deform it back. Then there is the issue of, if it happens once, the chances of the problem reoccuring are probably raised since the strut tower metal has now been deformed twice.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Konky
especially if you got lowering springs or coilovers?
I wouldn't expect the dealer to look too favorably on suspension mods if you have this problem. Not that you can't get mushroomed strut towers from the stock suspension with the rock hard run-flats.
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  #44  
Old 02-02-2006, 05:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave
The mushrooming can be addressed under warranty, however the fix is to basically bash the strut tower back down into shape. Personally, I'm not a fan of deforming metal in one direction (the mushrooming) only to deform it back. Then there is the issue of, if it happens once, the chances of the problem reoccuring are probably raised since the strut tower metal has now been deformed twice.
Yeah, I don't really like having to do that either. In reality though, steel (and other metals) actually stiffen with a little bit of working. Try taking a small piece of sheet metal and bending it back and forth a few times. It'll initially stiffen up and strengthen a bit, before succumbing to fatigue and fracturing. This is why forging produces such strong pieces. Working the metal increases its rigidity and strength initially, but over-working it will introduce too much fatigue, resulting in stress fractures or complete failure.
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  #45  
Old 02-02-2006, 05:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Konky
So i take it, if this mushrooming happens, the dealer won't fix this under warrranty? especially if you got lowering springs or coilovers?
If they can get out of covering it under warranty they usually will. Trust me. And if you have don't anything to touch that tower they will say they are not going to cover it.

Yes this is a generalization, but if you have made mods that "could" contribute to the probelm your chances are not good that it will be covered.
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