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  #1  
Old 06-27-2007, 08:50 PM
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Default Brake ducts + GP bumper

I have a bit of a brake overheating problem. The pads and disks have been uprated already with slotted disks and performance pads. Still only takes 10-15 minutes on a race track to loose all braking power

I am purchasing a GP bumper soon, as I think it will be a bit different from the norm, while still maintaining the high quality OEM look.

I would like to make the jump to actually using the brake ducts on the bumper. I think if it has them, they should be functional. Has anyone done it before to the GP bumper?

I was thinking about either contacting way motor works about purchasing just the rear part of their kit, or attempting to make my own to use with the GP vents. What do you guys think?
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Old 06-27-2007, 08:57 PM
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I have seen a link on here I think of a GP bumper with the ducts functional, just looking to find it...
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  #3  
Old 06-27-2007, 09:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bhozar View Post
I have a bit of a brake overheating problem. The pads and disks have been uprated already with slotted disks and performance pads. Still only takes 10-15 minutes on a race track to loose all braking power

I am purchasing a GP bumper soon, as I think it will be a bit different from the norm, while still maintaining the high quality OEM look.

I would like to make the jump to actually using the brake ducts on the bumper. I think if it has them, they should be functional. Has anyone done it before to the GP bumper?

I was thinking about either contacting way motor works about purchasing just the rear part of their kit, or attempting to make my own to use with the GP vents. What do you guys think?
Did you swap out the fluid, or are you still running the OEM stuff?
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Old 06-27-2007, 09:35 PM
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Yup, swapped the fluid.

Big Brake Kit will be fitted in the next couple of weeks too, but I still fancy the ducts.
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Old 06-27-2007, 09:38 PM
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Yup, swapped the fluid.

Big Brake Kit will be fitted in the next couple of weeks too, but I still fancy the ducts.
Sweet. What fluid are you running? Do you have a lot of engine mods done? Which pads?

I'm kind'a having trouble understanding why your brakes are overheating after 10-15 minutes on the track despite pads and fluid. What track?
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Old 06-27-2007, 09:58 PM
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Sweet. What fluid are you running? Do you have a lot of engine mods done? Which pads?

I'm kind'a having trouble understanding why your brakes are overheating after 10-15 minutes on the track despite pads and fluid. What track?
Not sure of the brand, but its DOT5.1 stuff with Mintex fast road/track pads.

The track is Castle Coombe. They dont seem to overheat on normal track days, but I think thats because the circuits are longer so more time between braking to cool down.

I also have a load of engine mods on my JCW. Around the 230bhp mark, intercooler, manifold, decat, pullies, CAI.
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Old 06-27-2007, 10:09 PM
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Not sure of the brand, but its DOT5.1 stuff with Mintex fast road/track pads.

The track is Castle Coombe. They dont seem to overheat on normal track days, but I think thats because the circuits are longer so more time between braking to cool down.
Ah, so you're having trouble in actual competition?

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Originally Posted by Bhozar
I also have a load of engine mods on my JCW. Around the 230bhp mark, intercooler, manifold, decat, pullies, CAI.
Okay, that makes a bit more sense. More speed down the straight = more demand on the brakes.

One more question: How often do you replace your brake fluid? Brake fluid absorbs water from rain and the air itself, and as it absorbs more and more water, its boiling point drops away dramatically.

For example, Motul DOT 5.1 lists its dry boiling point at 509 deg F, while its wet boiling point is 365 deg F.

I'm assuming you get a lot of humid weather in the UK, so perhaps flushing the fluid more often may help you to reduce brake fade.
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Old 06-27-2007, 11:04 PM
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Ah, so you're having trouble in actual competition?



Okay, that makes a bit more sense. More speed down the straight = more demand on the brakes.

One more question: How often do you replace your brake fluid? Brake fluid absorbs water from rain and the air itself, and as it absorbs more and more water, its boiling point drops away dramatically.

For example, Motul DOT 5.1 lists its dry boiling point at 509 deg F, while its wet boiling point is 365 deg F.

I'm assuming you get a lot of humid weather in the UK, so perhaps flushing the fluid more often may help you to reduce brake fade.
Ohhh, I didnt know about the brake fluid absorbing water. Last time it happened I had replaced the fluid a couple of days before. It had also been fairly warm weather.

Not driving in competition, Castle Coombe do a few track days each year. One they do is nothing but MINI's and mini's all day.
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Old 06-27-2007, 11:07 PM
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Ohhh, I didnt know about the brake fluid absorbing water. Last time it happened I had replaced the fluid a couple of days before. It had also been fairly warm weather.

Not driving in competition, Castle Coombe do a few track days each year. One they do is nothing but MINI's and mini's all day.
Yeah, it can also happen if someone broke the seal on the brake fluid and left it sitting for awhile. Brake fluid has a pretty short shelf-life.
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Old 06-28-2007, 12:11 AM
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Some tracks are harder on brakes than others. I'm not familiar with the UK tracks, so I cannot help on that. But my current brake setup will work fine for 20 minutes at Watkins Glen and fade in 4 minutes at Saint Lawrence Motorsports Park (the two extremes I have experienced).
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Old 06-28-2007, 09:42 AM
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Next summer I'm off to the ring, so I want to get it all sorted out this year so I dont die in a crashing fireball on the ring.

Castle Coombe does have the rep as a hard track.
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Old 06-28-2007, 01:26 PM
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check gpmini.net... i swear i saw something on there about brake ducts on a GP bumper...
http://gpmini.net/wp/2007/04/diy_brake_ducts/
there it is. they didnt go all out, but i don't think it would be hard to take the next step.
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Old 06-28-2007, 01:42 PM
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Thats exactly what I was looking for. Now I know it can be done, just need to make the bits like the WMW/JCW ducts to bring the air around the wheel onto the brakes.
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Old 06-28-2007, 06:57 PM
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Next summer I'm off to the ring, so I want to get it all sorted out this year so I dont die in a crashing fireball on the ring.

Castle Coombe does have the rep as a hard track.
I never found the Nordschliefe to be too hard on brakes because you have a lot of places to cool the brakes. Stay away from Hockenheim though, the hairpin is a rotor killer
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Old 06-28-2007, 09:40 PM
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if it can be usefull check out those pic I took in zandvoort, they're the ducts used in the mini challege, one for the disc and one for the calliper.
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and also check those, not mine, that I've found some months ago
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