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Braking Clamping the binders.

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  #16  
Old 06-28-2007, 09:52 PM
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And perhaps the most important feature in those photos: Directionally-vaned rotors. The stock rotors and a lot of aftermarket ones are straight-vaned. The rotors pictured above are directionally-vaned, so they act as a pump, pulling cool air through the rotor as they turn.
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  #17  
Old 06-29-2007, 05:03 PM
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Thanks for all the useful info and pictures guys.

Now I'm not sure if I am just going to go with some of those extendable hoses, or with some fiberglass curved venting like the JCW/WMW ones.
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  #18  
Old 07-01-2007, 08:53 PM
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Those are some good pics. Im gonna look into making some of those extendable hose ones. mmmm
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  #19  
Old 07-04-2007, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Bhozar View Post
I have a bit of a brake overheating problem. The pads and disks have been uprated already with slotted disks and performance pads. Still only takes 10-15 minutes on a race track to loose all braking power
Unfortunately MINI brakes are really small for the performance of the car, however on race track we should do a very slow run after a couple of fast laps to cool down the brakes (with slotted disk and perfromance pads too).

What brand and type of pads do you mount? Did you change standard dot 4 oil with something better?
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  #20  
Old 07-04-2007, 03:28 PM
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I had some decent fast road/track pads but didnt know which brake fluid was in the car.

I just ordered myself some new Motul RBF600 Racing Brake Fluid to go in the car when I change to my BBK.
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  #21  
Old 07-04-2007, 07:36 PM
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A good brake fluid is fundamental to eliminate/reduce a sympton called "vapor lock". Infact the first result of vapor lock is a longer and spongy foot-brake pedal stroke.

In the past I mounted EBC green stuff and Ferodo ds performance pads; they were surely better than OEM pads, but went out soon on the track.

My actual brake pads are Ferodo ds2500 and they were a very positive surprise; these are light racing pads but also recommended for an hard street use.

These pads need to go on temperature infact when you brake smoothly, braking seems to be not much powerfull instead when you start to push stronger and stronger they brake ever better.

In my opinion they are one of the best choice for a street/track alternate use.

With Ds2500 or similar (I'm thinking to EBC red stuff) and Motul RBF600 (or an other generic dot 5.1) I'm sure your feeling with brakes could seriously improve.
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  #22  
Old 07-04-2007, 08:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pauldesign View Post
A good brake fluid is fundamental to eliminate/reduce a sympton called "vapor lock". Infact the first result of vapor lock is a longer and spongy foot-brake pedal stroke.

In the past I mounted EBC green stuff and Ferodo ds performance pads; they were surely better than OEM pads, but went out soon on the track.

My actual brake pads are Ferodo ds2500 and they were a very positive surprise; these are light racing pads but also recommended for an hard street use.

These pads need to go on temperature infact when you brake smoothly, braking seems to be not much powerfull instead when you start to push stronger and stronger they brake ever better.

In my opinion they are one of the best choice for a street/track alternate use.

With Ds2500 or similar (I'm thinking to EBC red stuff) and Motul RBF600 (or an other generic dot 5.1) I'm sure your feeling with brakes could seriously improve.
100 % in agreement. I also want to add that for a high performance pad they are on the quiet side as well. Slight squeel at times but nothing you can't live with.

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  #23  
Old 07-04-2007, 10:42 PM
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100 % in agreement. I also want to add that for a high performance pad they are on the quiet side as well. Slight squeel at times but nothing you can't live with.

Randy
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  #24  
Old 07-11-2007, 05:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxmini View Post
100 % in agreement. I also want to add that for a high performance pad they are on the quiet side as well. Slight squeel at times but nothing you can't live with.

Randy
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I would also like to say that i have the ferodos on my bbk and they make no noise, but when i had them on my stock brakes they were super loud. haha squeeled at every stop sign
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  #25  
Old 08-06-2007, 08:06 PM
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A lot of people jump on the brakes very hard. I was always a guy who braked, for the most part, very easy. I didn't use up the brakes at all since I tended to roll off the throttle and onto the brake more easily. To put it in perspective, at Laguna Seca, which is hard on brakes, Rick Mears and I were teammates at Penske and Rick finished the race with only 70 thousandths of an inch of brake pad material left. I only used 70 thousandths of the pad in winning the race. People brake differently but can still run the same lap time, especially in a race.

- Danny Sullivan
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  #26  
Old 08-10-2007, 10:53 AM
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I may still go with the brake ducts when I fit a GP bumper, but it is probably overkill.

I now have a set of Porsche brakes with 341mm disks and running Motul 600 brake fluid. Its a nice setup. On the track I have been trying to get brake fade so I can find the limits of the system. 20 minutes of trying and no luck, just a lot of black all over my wheels.

Biase is moved forward a bit. The nose will dip a bit when doing an emergency stop, but the braking distance has gone down.

I guess my Eagle F1 GSD3 tyres had more traction in them, than the OEM brakes could use.

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  #27  
Old 08-10-2007, 05:01 PM
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Why y'gotta show me Porsche brakes behind the very same wheels I have? Dick!

Have you thought about maybe going to an upsized rotor kit in the rear to try to even out your brake bias?
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  #28  
Old 08-10-2007, 05:12 PM
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this might be helpful....pics of a bare GP bumper

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  #29  
Old 08-14-2007, 04:37 AM
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oh man rally that is sexy. How much to by that?..........................Then get my whole car painted to match the bumper. I even like the primer. haha
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  #30  
Old 08-14-2007, 08:02 PM
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we just did that on saturday to an aero bumper:

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