motoring|underground  
Register FAQ Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Blog

The Garage The place to show off your pride and joy. Show us your motoring masterpiece herein!

Go Back   motoring|underground > The Pits > The Garage
Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #1  
Old 10-09-2012, 03:55 PM
BlwnAway's Avatar
BlwnAway BlwnAway is offline
Y Rated - 186 mph
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: St.Louis, Mo.
Posts: 1,934
Default Bolo's 200k + Build Thread

Ok, so I finally decided to do an "actual" build thread, instead of throwing bits & pieces all over the forum, and since I broke the 200k mark a few weeks back, figured this was as good a time as any.

So I guess it's fitting to start off with NOT Just repeating all the Sprintex stuff....
The final tuning for the Sprintex is just about done, and anything directly related to it, I'll still update on that thread:
http://www.motoringunderground.com/f...ad.php?t=22056

Anything here will be after 200k mods only.

Lets start with the Proof and the pre200k history.

Click the image to open in full size.

Current milage is just under 202500

Da Car:
2005 MCSC-JCW
6 Speed
Pure Silver / Black
Full Leather
Sport Pack
Cold Weather Pack
Chrono Pack
Xenon Headlights
OEM Driving Lights
17" "Bullets"

Current Mods are such:

Da POWER:
Stock Lower End
RMW BVH
Stock Cam
Thumper Adjusted Cam Gear (post 200k)
Match Ported Intake
550cc Injectors
Dinan Lg Bore T/B
Stock JCW CAI Flapped w/ ITG Foam Filter
ATI Super Damper
TSW Solid Upper Motor Mount
Ireland Lower Mounts
Sprintex S/C w/ 60mm Pulley (S/C installed @ 178,800)
Mynes V2 Header w/ Stock JCW Exhaust
Byteronik F/A Tuning Software & Tune


Da Ride:
H-Sport Springs
Koni Yellows
H-Sport Rear Lower Control Arms
25mm Rear Sway Bar
Power Flex Lower Control Arm Bushings
215/45/17 Kuhmo Ecsta AST's


Da Inside:
LED Conversion of all interior Lights / Blue :pimpin':
VEI Dash Mounted Gauges (Boost / Volts / Fuel psi. / Dual IAT)
Craven Speed Gauge Mount
Innovative Motor Sports AFR Gauge
Craven Speed Stainless Shift Knob
Craven Speed Shift Well Cover
Blacked Out Trim Rings
Black / Silver Fuzzy Dice :psuedopimpin':


Da Outside:
Blacked Out w/ 35% Tinted Windows
Drag DR-11 Gun Metal 17x7 Wheels
M7 Ram Hood Scoop
8000k HID Bulbs
Hella Black Majic 500 series Driving Lights (Lower Grill Mounted on Outmotoring Brackets) w/ 8000k HID Bulbs and 55w hid ballasts
Projector Fog Lights w/ matching 8000k HID Bulbs
Custom LED Headlight Projector Surrounds (Here: http://www.motoringunderground.com/f...ad.php?t=23604 since it was after the 200k mark)


The car's lost some power due to just plain ole age & wear, but it still runs pretty strong, and I still have plans in the works to make more Power improvements and of course will be doing the inevitable "rebuild" when the time comes, with even more power improving "goodies", so stay tuned if you like.

I think thats about it, I really don't have any plans on slowing down on changes & such, hell where would the fun be in that, besides, "Excess" & "Over Kill" is just Too Much Fun! And who knows the whole thing may just give people some insite into modding at high milage, don't forget, I didn't even do the Sprintex & pulley/boost changes until 178,800.

Also don't forget....."What Does NEED Have To Do With It."

Oh, and I'm going to try & get some updated pic's real soon.
__________________
Click the image to open in full size.

Last edited by BlwnAway; 07-02-2016 at 02:47 AM..
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 10-09-2012, 07:12 PM
Konstantinos's Avatar
Konstantinos Konstantinos is offline
Y Rated - 186 mph
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Norwalk, CT
Posts: 4,862
Send a message via AIM to Konstantinos
Default

Congrats on 200 grand!
__________________
The statement below is true
The statement above is false
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 10-13-2012, 10:48 AM
BlwnAway's Avatar
BlwnAway BlwnAway is offline
Y Rated - 186 mph
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: St.Louis, Mo.
Posts: 1,934
Default

Since someone mentioned this on 03EmCeeS's build thread, and since this was actually my first mod after 200,000 I decided to just re-post it up here for reference:

Quote:
Originally Posted by BlwnAway View Post
Well, first mod after the 200k mark, Thmpr's Adjusted Cam Gear:
Since I was doing both the ACG & the 60mm, I thought why not get an individual comparison to go along with the combined effect.... So here it is, these are my results, the only change is the ACG, all the conditions were as close as I could get them, this is with a STOCK cam.
OEM Gear
ACG
(bottom graph is boost only, wanted to show, that's not where the power came from)

Click the image to open in full size.

I'm plenty happy.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlwnAway View Post
Thanks, I really like it, the extra torque is where the fun is, I went from being able to hear & feel the tires spin in the top of 1st gear, to actually being able to smell them..... It's good to still be able to make improvements (and to feel the results)

Quote:
Originally Posted by BlwnAway View Post
After a couple of days of living with it:

Between the extra low end of the Sprintex and now the added torque of the ACG the car is a completely different animal.

I can't say enough about the ACG, esp. for me, I just got lucky and got "one of those" ECU's that doesn't like cams, so I had no choice but to stick with the OEM, but now it's the same or better than either of the cam's I tried, simply because the power comes on sooner, as the graph above tells you I got a peak difference of 7 ft/lb's, but if you look at it closely you'll see that early on it was more like a 9 to 10 ft/lb gain, and neither of my cams turned on near that early. As the guy who designed it say's "It Just Rocks!", not to mention it's a pretty simple mod.

I just wish I could use both, a Cam & the ACG, and according to Byteronic guys, with the last update in software, I could now work around my ecu issues, but I'm just a little hesitant to try, not because I don't think it could be done, but because of the fact that the cam cap bolts, on this "aluminum" head have already been torqued a total of 6 times, with all of my experimenting, and I'm just not comfortable enough with having to worry about stressing those threads "too much" and finding out it was one too many times....not to mention I sold both my cams. But the extra top end power of a good cam & the addtnl. low end torque of the ACG would be a great combo, who knows?
__________________
Click the image to open in full size.

Last edited by BlwnAway; 07-02-2016 at 02:51 AM..
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 10-16-2012, 08:27 AM
BlwnAway's Avatar
BlwnAway BlwnAway is offline
Y Rated - 186 mph
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: St.Louis, Mo.
Posts: 1,934
Default

Ok, there were 2 other major items I had on my list of things to do before the rebuild, W/M & Nitrous, and with the change in seasons I decided to do the Nitrous first, I'll do the W/M early in the spring.

I want to start by saying, this system is Complete Overkill and will never be used to it's full potential on the Mini, but there is actually a method to my madness. One of the reasons for all the extra stuff is, I just decided to do it all now & never have to add later, no matter what vehicle I use it on. (not to mention, just a couple of things & this 1 system becomes 2) The main reason though, is control, I wanted maximum control over when & how much.

So, I started with this; the Zex Universal 4-6 cyl. Wet kit, Black Out edition. http://www.zex.com/zx/nitrous-system...wet-black.html

Click the image to open in full size.

Sorry, I didn't do the obligatory "spread out everything on the floor" picture.

I choose "Wet" for the safety & ease of tuning, I'll be running a small enough "shot" that I won't need much timing adjustment and with "Wet" the AFR can simply be tuned with the fuel jet.

As I said, I started with that system, off of it I've built a One Off, Custom, 2 Stage system, including a 2nd "Wet Management" unit & RPM controller, I've also added a Purge kit & Bottle Heater.

Here's the intent behind all the "extra's" :
2 stages, mainly for traction & delivery control, each stage acts on both a WOT throttle position sensor & a push button. (2 seperate push buttons, one for Stage 1 only, one for both Stages combined)

Stage 1 will be stricktly determined by traction, what ever level I can use, up to approx. a 65 "shot" that the car will hold traction @ 3500 RPM in 2nd gear, is where it will be set at.

Stage 2 will give me an additional "shot" to give me a combined total of about 100, (for this incarnation of my motor) it will also be controlled by an RPM "window" switch and will only activate from the bottom of my next gear RPM point up to 7000. (in other words, if I run out the gear to "shift point" the RPM that I am then at, after my gear change, is where I'll set the bottom of the RPM controller, approx 5400 or so)

Here's a few pic's of the install so far, I'm 1/2 finished with all of the engine compartment install & have some of the wiring started:

Cut out for mounting panel:

Click the image to open in full size.

Fabbed new panel:

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Mocked up:

Click the image to open in full size.

Installed:

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

I still have to install my Nozzles into my S/C horn & run my Fuel line from the Fuel Rail to my Gauge Sensor, then connect it to the system, I'm also adding a NOS pressure sensor for a gauge into the car. I'm finishing up making the bracket for those sensors now, and making custom push button & indicator panels for inside the car as well.

I'll get more pic's as everything happens.
__________________
Click the image to open in full size.

Last edited by BlwnAway; 07-02-2016 at 02:57 AM..
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 10-16-2012, 12:19 PM
Chase Chase is offline
µ Leadership
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Bloomington, IN
Posts: 13,459
Default

killer man, this is going to be great
__________________
“Whatever it is, the car has to look good. If your car doesn’t look good, sound good, and feel good, you’re not going to drive it like you should.” Akira Nakai
Click the image to open in full size.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 10-18-2012, 10:55 PM
nothingman nothingman is offline
N Rated - 87 mph
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 1
Default

Blue interior lights, meaning the surrounds right? Because I want to do the dash and gauges but can't find a place outside of UK that has premade stuff, only instructions on how to re-solder them all
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 10-19-2012, 05:03 AM
BlwnAway's Avatar
BlwnAway BlwnAway is offline
Y Rated - 186 mph
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: St.Louis, Mo.
Posts: 1,934
Default

No, I replaced all the interior bulbs (footwells, maps, dome) w/ blue led's, as far as gauges, my understanding is you are correct, nothing pre-made, only done custom as you've found.
__________________
Click the image to open in full size.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 10-19-2012, 01:09 PM
03EmCeeS 03EmCeeS is offline
Y Rated - 186 mph
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Collegeville, PA
Posts: 398
Default

Very psyched to see this nitrous setup come together!
__________________
03 Dark Silver MCS
Thumper TPR2, NS1, Thumper ACG, Mynes FA53, Stratmosphere, Megan Racing coils


"The feeling of maintaining control of something on the ragged edge of disaster is more addictive than anything"
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 11-13-2012, 06:56 AM
BlwnAway's Avatar
BlwnAway BlwnAway is offline
Y Rated - 186 mph
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: St.Louis, Mo.
Posts: 1,934
Default

Things have been slow going with other stuff taking priority, finally had a little time on Sat, so everything under the hood is basiclly done, all I'm waiting on to complete the "under the bonnet" work is to install the pressure sensor for the NOS gauge for in the car. It should be here by the w/e.

Fuel line plumbed and new sensor bracket made:

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Switch panel done also:
(W/M, NOS, Bottle Heater, Purge, Remote Bottle Opener)

Click the image to open in full size.

Really hope to be done & testing by Turkey Eatin' w/e.
__________________
Click the image to open in full size.

Last edited by BlwnAway; 11-13-2012 at 08:07 AM..
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 11-13-2012, 01:10 PM
Captain Claw's Avatar
Captain Claw Captain Claw is offline
μ
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Nashville Area
Posts: 6,353
Send a message via MSN to Captain Claw
Default

Damn dude 200k!!! Hahaha awesome
__________________

Quote:
Originally Posted by that7guy View Post
I have a strong dislike for small humans
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 11-13-2012, 02:25 PM
Chase Chase is offline
µ Leadership
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Bloomington, IN
Posts: 13,459
Default

Ill give you a call today. I am curious about that fuel line you ran
__________________
“Whatever it is, the car has to look good. If your car doesn’t look good, sound good, and feel good, you’re not going to drive it like you should.” Akira Nakai
Click the image to open in full size.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 11-13-2012, 02:31 PM
Rustyeuro's Avatar
Rustyeuro Rustyeuro is offline
Y Rated - 186 mph
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Central Minnesota
Posts: 1,108
Default

what kind of fuel pressure regulator are you using with the fuel return line?
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Konstantinos View Post
crap I'm trolling my own thread.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 11-13-2012, 02:57 PM
BlwnAway's Avatar
BlwnAway BlwnAway is offline
Y Rated - 186 mph
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: St.Louis, Mo.
Posts: 1,934
Default

Thats not a return line, it's a feed line for the NOS, with a mechanical fuel pressure sensor plumbed in.

The sensor itself has been there for a year or so now, besides T'ing into the NOS control unit, the real difference is that it's finally plumbed properly. Before I was just using regular rubber fuel hose & heavy duty clamps for the connection, that and I had to make a new bracket for the addition of the 2nd (NOS) sensor.
__________________
Click the image to open in full size.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 11-13-2012, 03:00 PM
Chase Chase is offline
µ Leadership
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Bloomington, IN
Posts: 13,459
Default

Ah, for a second i thought you ran a return line and i was about to have you come here and make me one haha
__________________
“Whatever it is, the car has to look good. If your car doesn’t look good, sound good, and feel good, you’re not going to drive it like you should.” Akira Nakai
Click the image to open in full size.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 11-13-2012, 03:11 PM
BlwnAway's Avatar
BlwnAway BlwnAway is offline
Y Rated - 186 mph
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: St.Louis, Mo.
Posts: 1,934
Default

Same principle though, just pull the valve stem & plumb your regulator and return line from there.

The reason I plumbed it the way I did is to be able to see if there is a significant or any drop in fuel pressure at the rail (which of course is regulated by the fuel regulator) when the Nos is triggered in either stage.

There are safety's built into the control unit for "too low" fuel pressure, for the use of the Nitrous, but with it plumbed there, I can monitor the pressure to see if the additional fuel being used by the Nitrous is possibly pulling too much from the injectors, and if additional fuel pressure will be needed.
__________________
Click the image to open in full size.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


CURRENT MOON

All times are GMT. The time now is 10:48 PM.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
©2005 motoring|underground, all rights reserved.