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  #151  
Old 08-02-2011, 10:06 PM
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yeah, it looks like a tiny cheap generic thing. its electric, and seems to have been relocated to the trunk, so it should be easy to change. I guess the question is, what to change it too.
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  #152  
Old 08-02-2011, 10:12 PM
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I will post the one I got later when I get home yo!
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  #153  
Old 08-02-2011, 10:35 PM
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What year is the car? It has a carburetor, right? I would just put a factory mechanical one back on. Theres no need for an electric pump on a carbureted car. The fuel system isn't designed to work with an electric pump and when people swap one in it usually won't prime right. I have swapped out enough electric pumps that didnt work right. The cars ive worked on usually run better when the stock pump is used. From what i've seen, the car will run until its parked on an incline and the electric pump cavitates and will not prime again.

The factory pump probably blew the diaphragm and was leaking fuel into the crankcase.
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  #154  
Old 08-02-2011, 11:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by not-so-rednwhitecooper View Post
What year is the car? It has a carburetor, right? I would just put a factory mechanical one back on. Theres no need for an electric pump on a carbureted car. The fuel system isn't designed to work with an electric pump and when people swap one in it usually won't prime right. I have swapped out enough electric pumps that didnt work right. The cars ive worked on usually run better when the stock pump is used. From what i've seen, the car will run until its parked on an incline and the electric pump cavitates and will not prime again.

The factory pump probably blew the diaphragm and was leaking fuel into the crankcase.
It has 2 carburetors actually, and according to the Haynes manual it did actually come with an electric fuel pump. I'm pretty sure the current one is just a POS.

It has been parked on an incline though, and not started for a few days. we rolled in onto flat ground, and lifted it up to look at things underneath. when we put it back down, it magically started again...hrm.

it still starts to die when its idling unless you give it pretty constant gas though.
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  #155  
Old 08-03-2011, 12:06 AM
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Does it have a regulator or is is just full pressure at all times? If it has a regulator, it could be operating improperly.

Is the engine the original? Did it have a single carb at one time? All these things could be factors. If the car originally had a mechanical pump, the pickup in the tank is not the same as a pickup for an electrical pump.

The electric pump has to be gravity fed on the inlet side. Its a pusher pump, not a puller. It will not suck anything out of the tank. The mechanical pump is a puller, using the diaphragm and a lever on the cam to generate a vacuum to pull the fuel to the carb(s).
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  #156  
Old 08-03-2011, 12:19 AM
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original engine, the cooper came with 2 carbs, the pump used to be located below the rear sub frame so it's always been electrical.

I don't believe it has a regulator.

though it has been moved. It was below the subframe and now its up in the trunk next to the gas tank. so maybe that's part of the problem, no more gravity moving gas down to the pump.
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  #157  
Old 08-03-2011, 12:38 AM
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I just took another look at it, the tube that feeds the pump actually goes up in a little loop.
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  #158  
Old 08-03-2011, 01:00 AM
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The pump is probably OK, relocate it so that it is gravity fed at all times.

None of the fuel line after the pump matters. Its under high pressure after the pump, you could run it above the roof and it would run perfect. As long as the pump always has a steady stream of gravity fed fuel at the inlet, it will never be a problem.

The fuel also cools the electrical pump, so make sure it never gets starved or it will burn up quickly.
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  #159  
Old 08-03-2011, 01:23 AM
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I googled it, its a $35 autozone pump. I think I'd rather just get a nicer one and then relocate that.

now, what to get? so many options.
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  #160  
Old 08-03-2011, 04:35 AM
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  #161  
Old 08-03-2011, 05:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bombardier View Post
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Yeah, i'd imagine that those twin 28mm carbs need all 45psi and 150gph flow, lol.


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRT-P4070/

This is absolutely perfect for your application. Internal regulator, 6psi, integral bracket.
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  #162  
Old 08-03-2011, 05:58 AM
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Haha, yeah, you know, But it would be PRETTY!
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  #163  
Old 08-03-2011, 05:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by not-so-rednwhitecooper View Post
Yeah, i'd imagine that those twin 28mm carbs need all 45psi and 150gph flow, lol.


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRT-P4070/

This is absolutely perfect for your application. Internal regulator, 6psi, integral bracket.
the only problem i see with that one is that I have to add a fuel filter to the line feeding it, according to the instructions.

most of the other ones I've looked at have a built in filter
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  #164  
Old 08-03-2011, 06:44 PM
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All the filters are pretty much the same. I use the glass spectre filters for all my stuff. Any filter will do, summit sells Aluminum ones or jut get a plastic one off the shelf at AutoZone.

The built in filters you see onthe small worm gear pumps are not meant to filter small debris, it is just there to protect the pump from large particles that could damage the internals. You should still use a paper or fine mesh filter before the carbs so they don't get gummed up.
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  #165  
Old 08-09-2011, 05:57 AM
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I have brakes!! 3 cheers for stopping!!!

they just needed a little fiddling.

and a new handbrake cable cause one of them was in 2 pieces instead of one.

now to work on the fronts. I'm thinking about just upgrading the lines, and then letting things be for a while. the current ones are old and original and probably ready to retire.
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