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  #16  
Old 06-28-2015, 04:43 PM
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I put about 30,000 trouble free miles on our white Clubman without running them. I'd suggest using them since they are such a small investment, but I also wouldn't sweat running without them if you center and torque your wheels properly.
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  #17  
Old 06-28-2015, 05:42 PM
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When I rebuilt my Works rims, I couldn't find hub centric rings....
When I rotate them, I take a little extra time with the lug bolts and rely on the bolt taper to center the wheel before torqueing them down... I haven't had any issues...
I guess it's like the old days with drum brakes when the wheels were centered by the lug nut taper...
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  #18  
Old 06-28-2015, 07:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Partsman View Post

I asked you about my hubs because you seemed to maybe know something about it..
So then you can understand that it's highly probable that I have in fact held a set of MINI hubs in my hands before?

Just because I'm right about this doesn't mean that I'm right about everything....but I am right about this. Generally, if I don't know enough about something, I refrain from posting at all and leave it to someone else with more knowledge to answer. I think you'll find that I'm very rarely in threads where people are discussing cam profiles or anything of the matter...but it should come as no surprise that I would chime in on a wheel related thread on Motoring Underground. I will certainly never act like I know everything (and I apologize if it ever comes off that way)...but I will post with confidence when I do know about something.

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Originally Posted by cooldaddy View Post
I think it sounds pretty simple, get hub centric rings if they are easy to find (most are) but without them it doesn't appear to be the of the world. I had one missing for 10k and never noticed an issue. Meant to fix it, forgot several times until I found the missing ring somewhere. Maybe I was lucky, who knows.
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Originally Posted by Flamez View Post
I put about 30,000 trouble free miles on our white Clubman without running them. I'd suggest using them since they are such a small investment, but I also wouldn't sweat running without them if you center and torque your wheels properly.
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Originally Posted by Snip's View Post
When I rebuilt my Works rims, I couldn't find hub centric rings....
When I rotate them, I take a little extra time with the lug bolts and rely on the bolt taper to center the wheel before torqueing them down... I haven't had any issues...
I guess it's like the old days with drum brakes when the wheels were centered by the lug nut taper...
That basically sums up my experience as well. If you can find a set of rings, throw down a few bucks because it will make mounting and centering them far easier. If you can't find a set because of an oddball size, it's not the end of the world as long as you properly center the wheels.
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  #19  
Old 06-28-2015, 11:15 PM
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I've never had an issue on multiple cars that are hub centric. Most were older and the hub rings were gone/damaged. I work with engineers that do this kind of stuff for a living (on much more critical applications) and they showed me a bunch of technical force/load diagrams that were way over my head and it seemed to support what Rally said. I'm definitely not an expert, but that's my input. I looked into it last night and there is some controversy, but the overwhelming majority of legitimate sites (not forums) say that they aren't designed to bear load.

With that said, again, I'm not an expert, but I'll go with Rally's judgement on this one.
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  #20  
Old 06-29-2015, 09:09 AM
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It's the frictional forces of the mating surfaces that keep the wheel in place. If you have an aluminum spacer with a hub centric lip. Do you really think that little 3mm thick lip will be able to bear the load. It would snap off in an instance. A cast iron hub might take a bit more load but I would not trust my life on it if the ring was the only load bearing part.
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Old 06-29-2015, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by ducks View Post
It's the frictional forces of the mating surfaces that keep the wheel in place. If you have an aluminum spacer with a hub centric lip. Do you really think that little 3mm thick lip will be able to bear the load. It would snap off in an instance. A cast iron hub might take a bit more load but I would not trust my life on it if the ring was the only load bearing part.
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  #22  
Old 06-29-2015, 03:26 PM
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All of the forces necessary to support the car on the hub come from the friction/clamping force of the wheel/hub assembly. The lugs are only used to apply this clamping force. The lugs have NO shear forces applied to them by the wheel.
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  #23  
Old 06-29-2015, 10:38 PM
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I just wanted to add, I recently got the hub rings installed and the shaking of my steering wheel has stopped significantly, now I'm assuming with an alignment, the shaking should stop completely.
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  #24  
Old 06-29-2015, 10:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowbutpretty View Post
I just wanted to add, I recently got the hub rings installed and the shaking of my steering wheel has stopped significantly, now I'm assuming with an alignment, the shaking should stop completely.
What year/model is your car? Double check for play in the control arm bushing as that can lead to some shake/wobble as well. Does the steering wheel jerk when you get on the brakes?
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  #25  
Old 06-30-2015, 01:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rally View Post
What year/model is your car? Double check for play in the control arm bushing as that can lead to some shake/wobble as well. Does the steering wheel jerk when you get on the brakes?
Basically, I replaced for rims and tires, I noticed steer jerking when I got to a certain amount of speed, so I called my mechanic, he said he forgot to mention the rims didn't have any hub rings and thought that would help. It did helped and hopefully an alignment would fix the issue completely. And no, it doesn't shake when I get on the breaks.
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  #26  
Old 06-30-2015, 01:09 AM
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An alignment may help. If you're going to get it done, I've always had good results from firestone. I paid $170 for lifetime alignments (yup... as many as I want for as long as I own the car) and it has paid for itself many times over. I get an alignment at least 4 times a year and before every road trip. lol
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  #27  
Old 06-30-2015, 11:51 AM
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A vibration issue like you're describing is normally more of a wheel balance or tire issue. I may have missed if you said they're new tires, but if not, they could either be out of balance or have wear patterns that are contributing to the vibration. Even if they're new, it doesn't mean they were balanced well (weights can come off), or there can be run-out issues on the wheel or tire that would cause the vibrations. Suspension or alignment issues could still be present, but if the only thing that just changed was the wheels and tires, I'd start there.

I have found that in many cases a properly sized hub ring is the best way to resolve vibrations like you're describing. I don't really know why, because a properly torqued wheel should be evenly centered on all of the lugs, but the only guess I can make is that the tiniest margin of error on the wheel centering can produce a big imbalance in the wheel.
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  #28  
Old 06-30-2015, 02:37 PM
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To summarize:

• They help center the wheel -which is very important but can be done without them.
• They add a ridiculously tiny tiny amount to the surface contact between wheel and hub which is the ENTIRE load bearing surface so technically they help with that but you likely will never notice the difference.
• When you get new wheels and tires installed have them balanced AND get an alignment.
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  #29  
Old 06-30-2015, 02:56 PM
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Hub centric wheels were initially done simply to aid in the mounting of the wheel to hub to try and minimize the potential for an off-center installation.

It is still very possible to get a wheel installed w/o rings off-centered on the hub. It won't be much, but it will still be enough to cause a nice vibration.
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