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#1
02-16-2007, 03:43 AM
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Uh-oh
Remember when I said my idea of tuning was to wait for your car to tell you what it needs? Well guess what? My car is talking to me.
The front shock mounts are bulging because I put so much stress on them while cornering. Solution: hammer them flat and install a front strut brace. The front wheel arch is scoring my inside tire in fully loaded corners. Solution: Koni adjustable coil over shocks. Factory set camber is no longer optimal. Solution: adjustable camber plates. The rear control arms are fatiguing under load. Solution: high performance rear control arms. I've warped the rotors of my new StopTech brakes. Solution: new rotors and learn how to brake better so it doesn't happen again. I'm gonna have a wreck soon 'cause I'm driving so frickin' fast. Solution: bolt in roll cage and a good safety seat with 5 point harness. This is no longer a grocery getter. It's a full on dedicated track day car. Anybody want to try me? 
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#2
02-16-2007, 05:16 AM
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Warped rotors are a misconception... what your rotors are probably telling you is that you need to heed the cool-down lap and use the drag of a turned off engine to slow your car to a stop when you pull into your parking spot after some hot laps, instead of squishing those toasty-hot pads into the rotors after the car has already stops.
According to an article I read by Stoptech a long time ago, the feel of "warped rotors" is actually caused by a deposit in your rotors called cementite. You should be able to see it on rotor--a slightly darker pad-shaped deposit somewhere on the rotor surface. Basically, the heat of the rotor and pad combined with the pressure of the pad bringing the car to a complete stop causes the carbon in the pad and the iron in the rotor to form steel, which resists wear, causes a variation in friction coefficient as the pad wipes across it (vibration), and forces the rotor to wear unevenly (iron wears faster than cementite). Anytime I've experienced that warped feel after a track day, I generally take care of it by braking for longer distances with lighter pressure for a few weeks. The reduced pressure seems to let the pad wear away the cementite without wearing the iron as much, so it'll smooth out after awhile, eliminating that warped rotor feel. According to Stoptech, you can also install some aggressive race pads (Ferodo DS3000, anyone?) for a couple of days, removing the cementite more quickly for those with less patience. 
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#3
02-16-2007, 12:54 PM
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Sounds good to me. I've been following your braking advice unheedingly and can already feel the difference. I'll try to take it easier today at Laguna and pay attention to cooldown.
Thanks!!
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#4
02-16-2007, 04:46 PM
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Quote:
The new mods sound good.....well thought-out....but that's what I would expect from ya!
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#5
02-16-2007, 09:55 PM
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Quote:
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#6
02-17-2007, 06:33 AM
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Quote:
 Good info.
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#8
02-17-2007, 06:25 PM
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I've found that if you daily drive with a cross duty track / street pad (Hawk HPS in my case) you will get pad deposits from daily driving.
Yes, coming to a complete stop with hot brakes after a session on the track will definitely cause pad desposits. But, it appears that with some pads, normal daily driving will do it too. I've found that getting them brakes nice and hot then bedding them in again will help, but only for a while. They'll act fine on the track, but after a month or so of daily driving I'll start getting a wobbling steering wheel under medium braking.
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#9
02-18-2007, 12:56 AM
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Uh-Oh.
It sounds like I won't be able to run off and hide from you any more if Casper and I ever get to return to a left coast track, Jerry. If I do..... I'll make sure my pointing finger is in good working order. 
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#12
02-18-2007, 11:08 PM
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BBM
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#14
02-23-2007, 07:31 PM
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Sad Arthur Bulks Up
Well, I guess that after 3 years of flogging this poor little car around the track, it's finally time to go racin'.
To that end, Bay Bridge Motors is currently installing: new front control arm bushings new rear control arms a front strut brace new Stoptech rotors (after I warped the first set) Hawk orange pads Koni adjustable shocks adjustable camber plates a roll cage Recaro driver's seat 5 point harness New gate braces and tow hooks for my trailer I already have Randy Webb's adjustable sway bar winched down tight, which is really helping with the understeer. Instead of lifting the inside front wheel in tight corners, it now does this:  And I stuck a K&N filter in the JCW airbox. With all these goodies aboard, I'll be back to learning how to drive again. Should be fun.
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Last edited by Siddhartha; 02-23-2007 at 07:49 PM..
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