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  #16  
Old 12-09-2005, 07:42 PM
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safety suggestion:

before deciding to go with loctite or not...
it's mandatory to check your wheel lug torque and tightening the lugs down with an accurate torque wrench!

that's the first thing to do if you dont want to loose your wheels while
driving (especially on track)
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  #17  
Old 12-09-2005, 07:46 PM
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Oh, and also--something that must be said, as stupid as it may sound: Don't Loctite your lugnuts on! Apply that stuff only to the part of the stud that will go into the hub--very carefully.
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  #18  
Old 12-12-2005, 12:17 AM
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My cousin works in a tire shop and he says it's a bad idea. But others say they used loctite and tourqed it to spec and it hasnt failed them.

I say check em reguraly and you should be fine.
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  #19  
Old 12-19-2005, 12:50 AM
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Default Loctite 290

Quote:
Originally Posted by CANYON MINI
We ALWAYS use red loctite,for wheel stud applications!
For those that have installed the studs already, Loctite 290 is a red category locking agent that wicks in through capillary action to fill the spaces between the mating thread surfaces. Requires heat to remove.

http://www.loctite.com/int_henkel/lo...d=114&layout=3
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  #20  
Old 12-19-2005, 06:25 PM
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Default I just replaced my studs

I bought new tires recently and when they went to instal them back on the car they broke two studs off (bitches used air guns of course)
The tire guys said that a better systme was bolts (the stock bolts don't work on my aftermarket rims...too fat) they gave me bolts that fit in the wheel's holes right (but I think were too short..only four or five threads holding - so they have some longer ones on order for me) I've checked the torque a few times because I was nervous...no change - alls good I think.
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  #21  
Old 01-05-2006, 06:22 PM
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Alright...here comes the noobiness again...

Can I get a better explanation about this stuff. I'm all kinds of confused. Lug bolts, nuts, studs, who, huh where?

My car has black (what I assume are) lug nuts with a little (for lack of a better description) lip on them at the end closest to the wheel. Do I need to change this or the studs or anything to get my new wheels put on? I'm sure it depends on the wheel but generally speaking here...

What's the difference in these setups?
-G
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  #22  
Old 01-05-2006, 06:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simplygriff
Alright...here comes the noobiness again...

Can I get a better explanation about this stuff. I'm all kinds of confused. Lug bolts, nuts, studs, who, huh where?

My car has black (what I assume are) lug nuts with a little (for lack of a better description) lip on them at the end closest to the wheel. Do I need to change this or the studs or anything to get my new wheels put on? I'm sure it depends on the wheel but generally speaking here...

What's the difference in these setups?
-G
MINIs come from the factory with lug bolts. They're big fat thick "screws", basically.

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Lug Bolt (not from a MINI)

Studs are basically a long bolt with no head. They bolt in place of the factory lug bolts, so when you take your wheel off, you have four long threaded studs sticking out of the hub. In conjunction with studs, you'll have to get lug nuts, which screw onto the end of the stud, securing the wheel.

Click the image to open in full size.
Madness Stud + Nuts conversion kit

Most wheels will attach just fine with the factory lug bolts, but you have to make sure the angle of the bolt head (the cone shape) matches the angle of the seat where it will push against the wheel. Some wheel designs are thicker in that area, and may require a stud conversion kit. Also, MINI wheels are hub-centric, meaning that they center themselves on the hub by matching the center bore of the wheel with the hub itself. Converting to studs+nuts will supposedly eliminate the need for this, but if you want to retain the wheel bolt method, you'll need to buy hub centering rings that match up the inside of the center bore of the aftermarket wheel to the hub diameter:

Huge image here: http://www.cecodist.com/images/Hub%2.../Hub-Rings.jpg

The ring is what's sitting between the hub and the wheel. I'd suggest buying hub-centric rings regardless of the attachment method, to ensure that the wheel is properly centered.
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  #23  
Old 01-05-2006, 07:04 PM
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I knew you'd come through Ivan. You are quite the wealth of knowledge.

Alright, so I've never had Lug Bolts on a car before. Always studs and nuts. Is doing the conversion a big deal? Should the tire shop I'm having my stuff put together at be able to do that if I want or need to?
-G
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  #24  
Old 01-05-2006, 07:09 PM
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The place where I got my tires wouldn't change them out because they said it was dangerous and they didn't want to be responsible. I don't know about your shop though.
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  #25  
Old 01-05-2006, 07:20 PM
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Think they would have different lug bolts in case mine don't fit? Looking at that madness kit.... I can't afford that right now. I'd have to cancel my spring/swaybar order.... Gasp!
-G
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  #26  
Old 01-05-2006, 07:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simplygriff
Think they would have different lug bolts in case mine don't fit? Looking at that madness kit.... I can't afford that right now. I'd have to send cancel my spring/swaybar order.... Gasp!
-G
Yeah, shops can order different lug bolts. BMW, Porsche, and a lot of other Euro makes use lug bolts, so they're pretty commonplace.
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  #27  
Old 01-05-2006, 07:33 PM
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Cool. This is the first euro I've owned. All my other cars were Acura's. Thanks for the info guys!
-G
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  #28  
Old 01-05-2006, 07:46 PM
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No problemo!
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  #29  
Old 01-05-2006, 07:54 PM
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One more thing... You know what size the hubs are if I want to get rings? Actually, I know I'm going to need rings. The new wheels hole is definately bigger.
-G
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  #30  
Old 01-05-2006, 08:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simplygriff
One more thing... You know what size the hubs are if I want to get rings? Actually, I know I'm going to need rings. The new wheels hole is definately bigger.
-G
56.1 mm
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